Rattlecan primers

[Corsair]

Okay, I got the CAV 3 Kickstarter in the other day and will be doing a big assembly line for these [70+CAVS and another 30+tanks]. So since the material being used is the Bones Black I figured I would report my results with trying some rattlecan primers.

First, the biggest surprise was the cheapest primer out there, Walmart's 96 cent flat white. It went on smooth, thin and dried quickly. It will probably wind up being my base for all of these, especially the 3 rd one.

Second, Rustoleum's Ultracover for plastics in flat. I used the Camo Tan and Dark Green and was very pleased with them. Went on thinly, good coverage and dried in a respectable 10-15 minutes.

Third, the Rustoleum Ultracover for plastics in Gloss. This went on much thicker and took a lot longer to dry. Over 1/2 hour, but very nice colors. I will try it over the Walmart primer to see if it works better in a couple of days.

Notes, the paints and minis were in the house overnight to keep them warm, the painting was done in my garage with a space heater running, so It was probably about 50 degrees F and raining outside.

[Cicciopiu]

In my (bad) experience it is better to wait at least 20 days. Every (every) rattlecan I've used to prime bones turned out tacky after few weeks.

[Corsair]

45 minutes ago, Cicciopiu said:

In my (bad) experience it is better to wait at least 20 days. Every (every) rattlecan I've used to prime bones turned out tacky after few weeks.

On the original Bones material, I have had the same experience with tackiness. That is why I have been trying it on Bones Black and the new CAVs in Black. Fingers crossed! The similarly hard material on the new mechs from Battletech have also worked well with the 'cans.

[Original_Carl]

I’ve had bad luck with rattle cans, too. I’ve tried Krylon’s primer for plastic, Army Painter and Citadel. The more recent the Bones material, the better the results, but I think I’m done with rattle cans.  My models all seem to end up shiny and sticky.

[golldan]

For what it is worth...After finding poor results with other spray can primers, I found that Tamiya Lt Grey Fine Surface Primer works great and I will continue to use for metal, Bones white and black. It is expensive, but if you have a mind to test it, please let us know how it stacks up.

[haldir]

Dupicolor light or medium(more like darker) grey primer is excellent as well. I use it almost exclusively for both of my hobbies (scale-models & minis). I have been using Army Painter white on mini (Bones even) as well. I just can't get it locally, thou my FLGS can order it now!

[Corsair]

1 hour ago, golldan said:

For what it is worth...After finding poor results with other spray can primers, I found that Tamiya Lt Grey Fine Surface Primer works great and I will continue to use for metal, Bones white and black. It is expensive, but if you have a mind to test it, please let us know how it stacks up.

I will see if the local Model RR shop stocks it and also look at Hobby Lobby, thanks for the tip.

1 hour ago, haldir said:

Dupicolor light or medium(more like darker) grey primer is excellent as well. I use it almost exclusively for both of my hobbies (scale-models & minis). I have been using Army Painter white on mini (Bones even) as well. I just can't get it locally, thou my FLGS can order it now!

And adding Duplicolor to the try out list as well.

[Inarah]

I really love the Duplicolor sandable sold by automotive stores. Grey and white are my go-tos.  I recommend very light application.  It can be slightly sticky on Bones, but I have no trouble painting on it. 

[mikem91]

i've had success and no tackiness from army painter primers.

[DocPiske]

I've been using Army Painter primer in many colors for several years and the colors other than white and black can be rather glossy unless you apply very light coats.

 

Primer's purpose is to adhere very well to the substrate, and to provide a good surface for subsequent layers to stick to well. It is really only important to use primer on those surfaces which will be subject to wear, mainly the sharp points and broad surfaces. The little nooks and crevices will be fine with whatever base layer you put down.  I know a lot of places lecture about getting complete coverage but that really only profits the companies that sell primer. Some competitive painters don't even use primer.

 

Acrylic paint adheres pretty well to Bones PVC if you can get the surface clean of mold release agent. Soaking and scrubbing in hot soapy water usually does the trick, but sometimes the very smooth areas are still paint and water repellant. A little sanding or filing to give the area some tooth will fix the problem, if you can reach the area. I also have scrubbed the problem areas with an old paint brush loaded up with brush on primer, let that dry and then was able to paint the area. While scrubbing the paint looks kinda slimy but by repeatedly wiping the brush on a towel and picking up more primer as needed, it does clear up and cover normally.

[Corsair]

Okay, follow up on the Rustoleum. It worked very well on the new CAVs and the Bones Black, however it did not work on the Halberd CAVs from the first issued CAVs, they are in a material closer to regular Bones in feel. 

[Corsair]

On 12/25/2019 at 5:43 PM, golldan said:

For what it is worth...After finding poor results with other spray can primers, I found that Tamiya Lt Grey Fine Surface Primer works great and I will continue to use for metal, Bones white and black. It is expensive, but if you have a mind to test it, please let us know how it stacks up.

@golldan I picked some of this up and you are right! This is excellent stuff. Regular Bones took to it like a kitten to warm milk. Thank you for recommending this, it is now top on my list.