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after a few years of not painting, the corona virus made me pick up the brushes again.


Every time I start a new phase of my erratic painting schedule there is a little ritual: I try to paint Laurana from the old LTPK2, struggle with her scroll, strip the paint off, try again and then give up to paint something else.


The instructions tell me to paint the scroll in white, make a black wash and then dry brush in white and voila, the writing on the scroll will magicly appear.


Except that it doesn't, it just becomes a complete mess.


What am I doing wrong? What could I do instead?


  • My freehand skills are nonexistent,  so the obvious solution (and the one I see done very often on this mini) doesn't work for me.
  • Leaving the scroll blank, because "she just cast the spell and it has disappeared" feels like cheating.


I would be really glad for some hints to point me in the right direction.


Thanks for your help!

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It may take some experimenting to get the right consistency of wash.  Too heavy and it's a mess, too light and the letters won't show up.   The wash needs to be very dry before you drybrush over it, otherwise you get mud.  The paint on your drybrush needs to be light, not clumpy, and pretty dry, almost to the point of being unusable.   I prefer a flat brush to a round one when drybrushing.  Make sure you are brushing across the surface, not poking bristles down into the lettering.   Hopefully, with some more practice you can get it right. 





If not, there's a KS listed in that section of the forum which is offering water slide transfers. :) 


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Thank you all for your quick help!



Here is a picture of the sculpt - not the best quality, but it shows the problem area:




Thanks for the clarifications. I was thinking to maybe use a ready made wash this time (I have a black one from Vallejo here), probably thinned down a bit to see if it works. And I'll try the dry brushing with the side of a flat brush this time - I haven't done that version yet.



If the drybrushing again doesn't work, I'll try your tip as a last resort, before the next round of paint stripping - it's really close to freehand though, I wonder if I can make it work. :lol:





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2 minutes ago, Samedi said:





If the drybrushing again doesn't work, I'll try your tip as a last resort, before the next round of paint stripping - it's really close to freehand though, I wonder if I can make it work. :lol:




Ah, now I see the pic, the writing is already engraved.

I made one of such things as well.

I used putty and a egyptian roller pin to create a scroll


What I did, Paint it all in a creamy bone colour ( makes good parchment) then use an ink and a small brush and "fill in" the words.



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2 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:


What I did, Paint it all in a creamy bone colour ( makes good parchment) then use an ink and a small brush and "fill in" the words.





I'll try this first!


Then the modified dry brushing, then the pseudo-"freehand".


Thanks again!


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I have had exactly the same problem with Laurana.  Mine is 90% done if you don't count the scroll.  I will try again tomorrow and see if I can make it work, maybe I was too enthusiastic with the dry brushing.  Flow improver can help with the wash, as can sealing the blank scroll before washing.  At least, those tricks have helped with other models...  :rolleyes:

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Quick update:


Laurana just returned from yet another paint stripping session. Argh! :angry:


I put on a thin coat of primer (I use Vallejo Game Color white brush on), and then base coated with MSP Creamy Ivory (1:1:1 paint:flow improver:ist. water). And then the engravings on the scroll were completely filled up.


Probably had too much paint on the brush, not ready to give up yet, though.


For my next attempt I will switch the Vallejo for MSP, let?s see if that helps.



good luck to you with that cursed scroll! If you find something that works please let me know!

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I suspect the thinness of your basecoat plus the flow improver is working against you.  Try a thicker basecoat without flow improver (4:1 paint:water or even 6:1).


When you try the engravings again, try using that 1:1:1 paint:water:flow improver mix for the wash.  (Or, depending on your paint, dilute it even more.)  You want this to settle in the engravings, so the behavior you mentioned is desirable here.  (If you have a brush with a good point, you may be able to just put the point of the brush in each engraving and capillary action will take care of the rest.)

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What I did to get the runes painted on Mangu Timur's sword (from the first LTPK) was put down a base coat in the rune color (in my case metallic gold) and then drybrush gently over it with the blade color (in my case black). It's not perfect because I'm still learning how to drybrush, and I was convinced that I screwed up completely until I took out a magnifying glass and looked closely. Photo from my lightbox with the macro lens:



Reaper 77148 Mangu Timur by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr


Reaper 77148 Mangu Timur by Ed's Toy Box, on Flickr


Depending on how much darker you want the runes on the scroll, you might have more trouble with that technique. But maybe black text on a white scroll means you can use a brighter white for the drybrush and let the black bleed through? That might make it look like it's a more worn scroll or something.

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Thanks, I'll give it another try - tomorrow. Laurana and I are not on good terms right now... ::D:


I always thought the flow improver is there to reduce surface tension and prevent pooling (to a degree). Perhaps that is not the case - or the effect is smaller than I hoped.

My next try: Thick primer and thick base coat (applied with very little paint on the brush). Let's see if there is enough engraving left to fill it with black wash. I'll report!



Thank you for the Idea and the pictures.

I have used this method a few tries ago - unfortunately without success. Maybe the engravings on the scroll are too shallow, maybe it was just my dry brushing skills being sub par. But I'll add it to my list of options and give it another try when the wash fails again...

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So this is exactly where I got frustrated with washes when I was working on that paint kit many years ago. :-> Sometimes descriptions of washes can make it seem like the darker colour will go ONLY in the depressions and not on the rest of your surface. But that's not how paint works. If you hold her with the scroll face up, the wash will hopefully concentrate a bit in the depressions of the writing, but it'll tint the whole surface. It's kind of like a filter over a camera on a photo - everything in the photo will get affected by that filter.

Faking little squiggle lines with paint over the sculpted runes is probably the best way to get a nice clean look for the scroll if that is your preference. You have the sculpted runes as a guideline, so it's not as terrifying as doing full-on freehand. You've tried the other way a bunch of times, it's worth it to try this way once?

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