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Glitterwolf

Glitterwolf's 3D Printing Adventures

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I have yet to unpack the Elegoo Mars.

However I installed Chitubox.

 

I have now loaded files.

As recommended on Youtube I filled the bed with several minis to print.

And I laid them flat to speed up the printing process and tilted them a little.

 

Test subjects:

 

  • Snake Warrior
  • Cobra ( with base)
  • Bat Demon
  • Small Foo Dog statues
  • Asian Ghost
  • Oni in three parts.

 

image.png.e87a7a14859b64c69372d1d52adb16d4.png

 

Added the automated supports.

 

image.png.cc96371070ac27532d27bc8d8b0cea1d.png

image.png.4d073acd8334d0b9ec053dea70f43e94.png

image.png.c800261d2bdd1a6bc01e6f82aca1a1d1.png

Edited by Glitterwolf
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Does anyone see a problem?

 

Too many supports? Not Enough?

 

 

 

 

image.thumb.png.f392409cd113e6221a71f195da969189.png

 

image.thumb.png.5f3e7708544c7d1dd0397ca08651852a.png

image.thumb.png.1b9205ed76958871b19fffc2d0a97b82.png

image.thumb.png.e249046b758be5e24547e3366838d083.png

 

image.thumb.png.23d6b92536d7b546742f25b41fbdec95.png

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I have absolutely no knowledge to impart regarding the supports, I'm just glad you're going to have fun with your fancy new toy. Looking forward to seeing your journey!

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2 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

Does anyone see a problem?

 

Too many supports? Not Enough?

 

Whether there are too many supports are not is really hard to measure.  It really depends on the model and how you go about placing the supports.  Personally, I go through a model layer by layer and look for the islands that appear as I progress up.   Sometimes you get a large cluster of supports, especially with fur and hair.  Sometimes the model just doesn't have anything that needs  many supports.  Sometime you need to place supports just to reinforce or stabilize something.

 

That said, the supports in the screenshot do look pretty thick.  Did you use the stock Chitubox settings, or have you tweaked anything?  The thicker the connection point, the greater chance a scar will be left on the model.  But too small a connection point and the support will fail.

 

Lastly, I have started using an app called Photon File Validator to double check that I've support all islands.  It's an extra step in my workflow, but it has helped.

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I can't tell what you've picked, but for regular figs I use the "light" support settings.

I would put the important side (so the front/face) oriented up, to avoid supports there (similar to trying to avoid seams on faces ).

I usually go with 15-45 degree angle,  Here are some turrets for Churchills I did overnight.

image.thumb.png.5175a48c4a6bae3f191f706506ba0785.png

 

so far they look ok I think:

UKKiIMfnt4ACNp5NNFNgSOhPHK1XTblhF8eEVttHwe_kVwVH1yyBGxO_U8u4sJyCl2TLtBcLiL9HpsmUsDU5EzNZp4d5Cm0pXrwm3W7Co7D5GWTJZmpKSwzyNk-DGDJbFF1pGf7kY_WeS9BWNRZkReQCxODqegdDbhU1dnhnPsdpDYLluC0LFk9EiOeSnhqG2h8-_13lfTVITibvxR4QDsBb9ExYQEtkJS8lTil_OpR11Gq55rBEKqd-X00WpxZD0GX87YSU9UwK33Wc87ZR1zwT3cWODF9goFKpXouS0fwsFVU3PYdHDeeZNQ7poLANFdO2Jjr46TX9iHDoQx2FIS_p_0jJrLOUoqQNKEkXuatZ4jAfTCkqjTuKUw9SNcz8i7LDzNoiN3-sKljLwvRWu876035V3MXdoFXF1pp7j0fZmiKQP6jCAotrocFnOf27Kr0Wd3GE_dFZPA8Hpim4FhW4aE0Nd1Y7mM_6oCMJHZjpAfGETPtocwuTWqDwB6pxSOtBr2tz1otwV8zCmbQ4qVNDNg_boE4UtWnxFg8kkXUQAA8r5covgLv4J2jXo7Ibr1SyPakiNJzwtrrOxzzb1Q3teJatWbovTEronJfZNUonmQWyXj6LVGv8DxFx_Rx3260O746JDLpSi5K24XzSe_JXUOASm0SDggSqzzhC6FX27jwA_Oo9XbCeE7vHoZA=w1250-h937-no

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Not having a resin printer, I am just following along and cheering from the sidelines! On my FDM, I use light supports from the Cura Slicer program I use.

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@Clearman @Jasper_the_2nd I used the autosupport setting and then pulled the slider down and up, added light and medium supports where I saw red.

 

I was thinking to save this file and then remove all supports and add them manually again, maybe then look at the new setup with your advice.

I haven't changed any settings yet, except I put Anti-Aliasing to 4.

Not sure what to do with the settings yet.

 

I need to look at some more vids on the subject.

Maybe if one of you has advice about what would be good settings for printing I would appreciate it.

 

The printer is still packed, first I'm palying around with the chitubox, trying to learn how to deal with it.

 

Question

The Foo Dog Statues are very small.

I couldn't find how to enlarge them in Chitubox, does anyone know?

 

I'm learning.

Trying to create a file that will have a good chance of printing right.

 

Thanks all for your input and likes!

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Auto-support is notorious for not placing supports very well.  If you got a successful print, great, but you can get better prints by placing supports manually.  Unfortunately it takes practice.  I recommend these channels for Chitubox tutorials  :

 

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbv2mDrRqXovPdahRyoCFhA

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCmV8aGPeS70mDD4U-U2s9UQ

 

For scaling a model, when you are on the general settings tab (not in placing support mode) there are 4 icons on the left.  The third one down (magnifying glass with a cube) is the scale feature.  You will want get the scaling finalized before placing supports as the scale feature will remove supports.

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Chitubox seems to crash a lot, maybe because I have more than one model on the grid?

 

How does one solve that?

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I haven't had many crashed with Chitubox, but it has usually been when I've been trying to make it do too much.  When I think about it, this was one of the reasons I started placing supports on models individually, and then importing them into a larger project for slicing.

 

I do not know if there are any system parameters that can be tweaked or if system cpu/memory/graphics card make that much difference.  

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Removed the supports, started anew.

 

Also removed the small foo dogs and made a new file for those.

Again, toying around, learning.

 

image.png.0771ca98979b115074c144812314eb31.png

image.png.af942430ceff486fd72cd494a72f5601.png

image.thumb.png.49183fff555b272d3f99d4d696cd6bbc.png

image.thumb.png.438cc0d3a871e7e3cadfa90b35641915.png

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Are the foo dogs a single STL that is mirrored, or two completely unique models?

 

Chitubox has a mirror function, so you /could/ add supports to one model, and then mirror it to save some time.

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with the foo dogs you may actually get a better result by placing them so that the base is aligned with the print bed (or slightly angled with the base down), as they actually look like you may be able to print them with supports only on the base - based on the size of them I'd also seriously consider using the hollow function as they will have some significant suction as they are. Do you mind PMing the location of those foo dogs for me and I'll have a look for you.

With the other figures, I think you probably need to play with the angles/locations on the plate a bit more to get them in the best orientations for printing - by changing angle etc. you may be able to significantly reduce the number of supports, although you will have a cost of increased print time. Personally I would go with the longer print time and easier post-print cleanup!

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    • By Rahz
      Another 3D print that I’m working on, this time a big one.  I’ve shoes away from buying/printing dragons for the most part as I have a ton of amazing Reaper ones still to paint (or finish... ) but this one was a freebie of sorts from one of the creators I follow on Patreon.  
       
      In keeping with my clear resin tricks, I whipped up the base really quickly and then stalled on how I was going to paint the actual dragon...  oops!  
       


       
      I masked off the crystals and plugged the holes for the feet and primed it with a mix of brown and grey Vallejo primers, drybrushed it with a tan followed by a tan mixed with white and then it got a series of Vallejo model washes (green, grey and dark brown).  I then peeled off the mask and gave the crystals a quick coat with Tamiya Clear Green.  
       
      For the actual dragon, the plan now is to paint the heavier scales like the base with the softer belly and flesh being brown.  
       

       

       

       

       
      Like my recent plague doctor bust, I masked his eyes so they will be the same green as the crystals on his base.  I toyed with putting a light in his head as well, but seems to be doing that to everything all of a sudden, and skipped it.  
       
      in case you’re wondering about the pink, that’s what mixing the Vallejo red and grey primers did. The base was that colour before the drybrush and washes. 
       
      Hoping to get some more work on the brown and get the drybrush done on his scales this weekend.  That’s going to be a lot of drybrushing!! 
       
      Thanks for looking.  
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