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PurpleLlama

3D Printed Minis

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So I bought a resin 3D printer a couple of months ago.  Now that I’ve got it all dialed in I e been printing like mad.  I just finished using up the clear green resin that came with the printer.  I’m pretty happy with the detail.  I’ll try to keep updating this as I start painting.  Still some cleanup to do, but it’s hard to see until I get them primed.

 

 

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So I went ahead and primed up three hero forge minis I printed for my players next campaign and also the base of the beholder.  I have some grey resin coming in a couple of days that will make seeing details on the freshly printed parts much nicer.  Enjoy!

 

 

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They look great so far!  

What printer did you buy?

What program did you use to do the 3D modeling?  (or did you just buy the "sculpts"?)

 

How easy is it to print?

How long did it take (roughly) to print the beholder?

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Thanks Degare!

 

I’m using the Anycubic photon S printer.  The original photon is a pretty popular resin 3D printer for minis.  There’s a couple improvements with the S that I felt were worth it.  Especially since any new photon printers now come with the same chip board.  The only downside is the case is plastic instead of metal now so the door is kinda flimsy as you open it.

 

All of the player sized minis you see were created using hero forge.  If you’ve never used it, it’s a pretty fun tool for creating custom minis.  You can then have hero forge 3D print them for you or purchase the STL files and print them yourself. The beholder is from artisan guild Patreon.  You can purchase the model from my mini factory.  They have some awesome models to print and if you support their Patreon you get models monthly to download. 
 

3D printing really isn’t that difficult.  The main part that takes time to learn is how to correctly setup the supports.  You’re gonna have some failed prints at the start until you get that figured out.  The printer comes with a test print.  I highly recommend printing that first to make sure the bed is level and prints are sticking to the build plate.

 

I use a slicer program called Chitubox.  This imports the STL file, lets you add supports and do other things like rotate, scale, mirror, etc.  it then exports the model to a file type the printer can use.

 

The beholder as you can see is like 6 parts all together.  It took probably about 25 hours to print at 0.05 mm layer height.  This is a really detailed resolution to print at and I might have been able to get away with a larger layer height. 
 

There are other things to consider though.  After the print is done you have to clean the print and build plate with isopropyl alcohol to remove and liquid resin.  After that you need to remove supports and then using some kind of UV cure chamber to fully cure your print ( I just use a paint can with a string of UV LED lights as my cure chamber).  
 

let me know if you have any other questions!

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Cool!

 

I've been 3D printing for about a month now, I use the Elegoo Mars.

 

Love your prints!

Keep them coming!

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I finally got some grey resin in yesterday so I could get back to printing.  I started by reprinting one of the beholder tentacle sets as the one in clear green I did a pretty awful job of cleanup before curing.  After that I started printing a sailor moon figure for my girlfriend.   I scaled the model down to where the base is just over 2” in diameter.  It’s about as large as my printer can handle unfortunately.  The rest of the parts are in the printer now.  Need to decide what I would like to print next.
 

Next I have some pictures of the first print I’m painting.  It’s a half-elf bard.  Most of the base coating is done.  Next to start on the eyes then finish the skin and hair.

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I'm gonna switch to grey soon, myself. Did you adjust your setting any for the switch? I've got a S as well.

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I kept them the same as the settings I was running for the clear green.  There’s a google doc out there I found that has a list of resins and the settings people have used.  I think mine match that list pretty closely.

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Do pay attention to the settings for the specific colours.

I know @Jasper_the_2nd had some fails because the settings were off when he used a Maroon Resin, once adjusted it worked fine again.

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I just went from the Anycubic Clear to their Grey, and I'm printing at a much higher speed with that than with the Clear. 

 

BTW: We already have a thread over in OFF-Topic for this talk. I doubt that anyone would protest if a Llama showed up there....

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Gadgetman, what settings are you using for your grey?  I actually increased my exposure time when switching from clear to the grey. I went from 8 sec to 10 sec on the grey.  I’ll go and check out the thread over in the off-topic for sure!

 

I made some more progress on painting up the bard.  I spent most of my weekend getting him painted up so he’s ready to go for D&D on June 12th.  I might look at it after work and see if there’s any areas I’m not happy with and fix them up, but he’s mostly done.

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I'm running with 10 seconds, but I think I can go to 8 or 9 seconds. 

But there may be subtle differences between printers and batches of Resin, so...   

 

The trick with 3D printers s to find 'rock solid' settings, and fire it up before you go to work(or whatever) in the morning so that you have a fair certainty that when you get back home it hasn't broken loose or otherwise made a mess.   

Oh, and to fill the build plate as much as possible... 

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