Recently Browsing 0 members
No registered users viewing this page.
Welcome to our newest Kickstarter! You'll notice this one is a little different. In this Kickstarter we are offering the STL Files of some of our classic models for you to print on your home 3D printers. These files, created and designed by John Bear Ross, offer tons of combinations and entrance into an amazing realm of sci-fi models. These models come scaled in 15mm AND 28mm!
Now, keep in mind, these are for personal use, not for commercial or resale. We own the copyrights and designs but for the sake of this Kickstarter, we are allowing the files to go to you, our loyal supporters.
So why are we doing this Kickstarter?
Short answer…We are raising funds to increase our in-house printing capabilities. This will allow us to develop more detailed models, models in larger scales, and bring out even more product lines. Rebel Minis is growing and we want you guys to be part of it.
But we can’t do it without you, so please consider pledging, and spreading the word!
Mike and JBR
We have only one. ALL the files listed to be available for one pledged amount. You get the files to everything you see scaled in both 15mm and 28mm.
Your pledge of $40 gets the whole kit n’ caboodle. Once again, this is for PERSONAL USE! You do not have permission to distribute, copy or sell the files. *C'mon man, you know that ain’t cool!*
If we reach our goals, we will unlock stretch goals. These files will be added to the reward and download at the same time.
After the Kickstarter ends, and if it is successful, you will get a survey to confirm your email. Later, when they are ready, we will email you the links for download.
Look at all these Glorious Files, they can be yours!
Can I print the weapons and vehicles on FDM and Resin Printers?
Yes, everything should be printable on both types of printers found in common use. Most of our prints are optimized for desktop resin printers like the Anycubic Photon or the Elegoo Mars, but FDM should be able to support most builds. If we encounter files that are too large for resin printers, we will happily go back and supply sliced and optimized files to be printed in smaller chunks
Gun drones, gun carriages, and weapons. 28mm and 15mm. The Gun Carriages and brand new and have never been issued.
15mm Painted Gunbot examples Gunbots and Gun Carriages Painted Example of 15mm Scaled Gun Turret The Sci-Fi Cycle build is a Fan Favorite. Weapon mounts on each side could be scaled for a variety of weapons.
15mm Painted Examples of teh Sci-Fi Cycles With a variety of uses, The Combat Flatbed is a main stay on the future battlefield. The Hull can use the APC Treads from our other armored units, or use the original lifters as shown.
15mm Painted Examples of the combat flatbed MATVs come in both 15mm Classic and 28mm Upscale versions. Weapons turret has options for an M240G, M2 .50 Cal, M134 Gatling, and Mk47 Striker Grenade Machinegun. The MATV Truck is a new addition.
15mm Apache Painted Example MATV Breakdown The Sahadeen's ride of choice, the Gila Fast Attack Vehicle. In 15mm Classic and 28mm Upscale. Weapon modifications for a variety of scenarios.
Gila 15mm Painted example Gila Breakdown The Earth Force APC with a new grav module, treads that can also be used on the Combat Flatbed, the classic turret, and a double-barrel variant turret. There is a lot of flexibility in this model in both 28mm and 15mm scales.
15mm Painted APC Wolverine Example APC Variations APC Breakdown The Titan builds have multiple connection points to create multiple builds with the APC and the Light Tank.
15mm Titan Build (painted) 15mm Scaled Titan APC Painted Example Titan ApC Grav Build Titan Track Build Titan LTH Painted Titan LTT The Merka has been one of our best sellers in 15mm. New to this line is the battle-tank-sized grav kit has well as new small guns for the turret.
15mm Scale Painted Examples 28mm Scale Print Merka Variations Stretch Goals
Below are our stretch goals and if we reach those goals, new STL files will be unlocked! Take a look!
If we reach $2000, All Motor Pool pledges will receive the STL files for the Brand New Titan Battle Tank!
Titan Battle Tank Stretch Goal If we reach $3000, All Motor Pool pledges will receive the STL files for the Brand New Mega Merka Tank... Madness!
Mega Merka Stretch Goal!
My LFGS had a painting contest on its FB Star Wars Legion page a bit ago. 2 weeks to paint up a squad of at least 4 figures. As creativity counted, I decided to set my white and black paint aside and paint something besides Stormtroopers.
I took a look through the Rebel scum I'd acquired and really like the poses and sculpts for the Rebel Veterans.
I'd planned to do the whole box of 7 figures, but (as anyone who's seen my WIPs knows) I'm not the fastest painter. I'm lucky if I can get one figure done in two weeks.
So I quickly decided to just do 4 figures for the contest.
I liked how they came out, and they did get "best painted" in the contest, so I guess they are alright.
It then took me another 6 weeks to finally finish the last 3 figures (see? Sloooooow.)
But the whole unit is finally done.
Should probably read the rules on them sometime soon.....
Now back to all those Stormtroopers.
Putting my new Photon through its paces printing some Heroforge sculpts.
The halfling operative is actually a mash-up of two Heroforge sculpts in Tinkercad. (Why can't Heroforge let you have just a single cyberarm?)
Didn't think to photograph her till I had the primer on:
The first print of the gnome solarion didn't have enough supports on the arm with the fireball, so after cleaning the resulting lump out of the vat and trying again with more supports, here she is, supports and all:
This is my first time sharing my miniatures step by step, and excited to do so. Hopefully I can learn some things and everyone else who views the thread will learn a bit too.
I have been looking forward to the Starcadia board game and especially painting the minis that come with it. So first up is the Weeble alien monster. I picked it for 2 reasons, 1 because it was a simple model and I wanted to try my hand at the big eye. There are 4 total Weeble models and it took about 4-5 hours to get to the point in the last photo. I decided to mimic the illustration that came on the Weeble card in the game, so I am using a similar color scheme.
First step was prepping the model, and removing the mold lines. 2 of the 4 models had 2 bad areas on their left fin that left gaps and a rough spot. To fix it, I tried a new method, I put a little varnish on each area. If you haven't tried it, I definitely recommend it for small gaps or trouble areas that need filled or smoothed. I put a small dab on, let it dry and done, no need to pull out the putty.
2nd step was priming. I don't like the spray can so I use gesso. It might take a little longer, but no noxious fumes and extra space needed, just brush it on and let it dry. I just spread it thin and quick most of the time, hence the streaking in the picture. The streaking never shows on a finished mini from what I have experienced.
3 is where the fun began for me, choosing the colors and beginning to paint. My most recent elven minis, I started experimenting with different ways to do base coating and time around I am trying a colored base that is different that the final paint layer. I'm trying this out to see if I can reduce a step in my process and still get results I like. After examining the illustration, I settled on a blue-green for the body of the Weeble, and yellow for the eye. I plan on keeping with the warm yellow highlight in the front and the cold blue / purple shadow in the back. Once I decided that, I chose my basing colors, of a dark yellow brown for the front and dark blue purple for the back.
4 with the base shadows on the model, I started working from dark to light. I mixed up a glaze of a medium green and medium purple blue. I gradually worked up the colors with multiple layers making sure to blend the colors together where the transition occurred between them. I left the eye alone, because the dark yellow brown was perfect for the yellow eye.
5 once I was happy with the dark colors, I moved on to my mid-tones. I mixed up glazes of yellow green for the warm light and a blue green for the cold light. I took my time on this step again applying the glazes in layers to build up the color. I decided to try reflected / bounce lighting on the model, so I applied the blue green more on top of the model and the yellow green more on the bottom. I imagine the lighting being blue white (like a daylight bulb) which results a warmer reflected light in the areas not directly hit by the blue light.
6 after a while I moved on to the eye. I continued with painting dark to light, so I chose an orange brown for the light area and the same yellow brown and dark blue purple for the shadowed area. Again I gradually applied the glazes and blended them together.
Overall I am pleased with the direction it is going, and it is still far from done. I having gotten to the brightest highlights or even attempted the mouth yet. After that will be the finishing touches, the green slime, and scaly lumps. In the illustration the lumps are black but I don't think black will look good, any suggestions? I was also thinking of doing a slime trail, or more drool I've not done something like that before does anyone have any suggestions in the direction? Or should I not do a slime trail or more drool?
Who's Online 24 Members, 1 Anonymous, 42 Guests (See full list)