sycophant Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 Recently started using gesso as primer, since I wanted something brush-on, mostly because of mixed experiences with spray primers in the past and the inevitable spots I miss when cleaning that are easier to touch up with a brush-on primer. Started using Liquitex's white gesso, and have had mixed results. It seemed to work fine on a few miniatures, but then didn't stick well to others. I'm thinking the problem may have been that I thinned it too much and/or thinned it with flow-enhancer rather than just water. For those of you out there who prime with gesso, what's your method? How much do you thin, how many coats, etc? Thanx, BRiaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enchantra Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 Well, Gesso isn't meant for priming metal which may be why it was peeling off. Gesso is meant for priming porous surfaces to prepare them for paint, such as wood, papermache, canvas, and other heavy fabrics. I certainly wouldn't use it on a mini. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 I'm with Enchantra, here. I spoke with my aunt (who is an oil painter) and she made the same comment. Gesso needs something porous. I'd also imagine it's somewhat thick for such small work like we do. I know Reaper and Iron Wind Metals make brush on primer, and IWM makes a really smooth one. If you can find the Polly S zinc primer it's really nice as well. I'd also look at primers for airbrush. Some of those can double as brush-on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sycophant Posted August 5, 2004 Author Share Posted August 5, 2004 OK, I've studied it, as well, and I know that you're correct. AAMOF, Liquitex recommended that an "industrial primer" be used when painting metals. BUT -- how often do we do things we're not "supposed to". I've heard several people mention that they use gesso, and I have used it with some success as well. I do, however, appreciate your concern and candor. Thanx, BRiaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 Something I didn't ask. Are you washing your minis in soap and water before priming? You need to make certain you get the mold release agent off the metal before you start painting. I didn't know this when I first started. All those from way back when were either hard to paint or the paint is nearly non-existant now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enchantra Posted August 5, 2004 Share Posted August 5, 2004 Polly S zinc primer Where can I find this stuff Ary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars Porsenna Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 I agree with the others; also, if you intend to use your figures in games, I would think wear would be pretty bad. Chipped paint is cause primarily by 2 things: unadequate clearcoats, but most importantly, primer failure. The reason I use Krylon primers, and other laquer based ones, is that its tough, durable and bonds to metal well. I also think gesso would be a bit too grainy as well... Damon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cerridwyn1st Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Funny thing about mold release agents. I talked to Anne about this at Origins. She said it is rare to have mold release still on the mini, so she rarely washes hers. She does however put her stuff on painting jigs - even if it's only a bottle cap - so she minimizes touching it while she's painting. I've had problems with bubbles in my primer when the fig wasn't dry enough before I primed it. I noticed that Plaid metal paints suggested cleaning the metal with alcohol. I read the bottle, though I didn't buy the paint. So now I'm trying that, cleaning the fig with rubbing alcohol. Mostly I want to make sure there is no skin oil on it, more than I'm worried about release agents. On my "high end" stuff, I've been giving them a coat of Plaid metal medium, followed by Reaper brush on primer. For more generic stuff, spray primer. I'm trying Floquil and liking it pretty well. Killed bottle of white in one weekend. I also use Krylon and Tamiya Fine White primer. If you really want to use brush on primer, Reaper brush on works pretty well. The only suggestion I'd make is to get a Citadel flip top bottle to put it in, so it's easier to get at. Vallejo brush on primer is pretty nice too. Just make sure you use a painting jig. Poster tack and bottle caps work fine. You might consider and undercoat of metal medium. It's a trick I got from a "tread head" (historical armor painter) and those guys have the neatest tricks and tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sycophant Posted August 6, 2004 Author Share Posted August 6, 2004 Just make sure you use a painting jig. Poster tack and bottle caps work fine. You might consider and undercoat of metal medium. It's a trick I got from a "tread head" (historical armor painter) and those guys have the neatest tricks and tips. Yeah, been thinking about building a couple more permanent rigs, but right now I'm using.. uh... floral-tack (?) and two liter bottle caps. Dunno if the stuff's really called floral-tack, but it's big green blocks that you can get pretty cheap intended for floristry, similar to poster-tack, but perhaps not as tacky. I use a big blob stuck in the open side of the cap, then kinda wedge the base into it. I used to use wood blocks, but have had them untack on me, sending a mini skittering (is that a word?) across the floor. Woah, I've had too much caffeine today.... --BRiaN Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kheprera Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Polly S zinc primer Where can I find this stuff Ary? It's hard to find. I've got some from about 10 years ago that's still in great condition that I use sparingly. I think I last found it at my local Hobbytown USA. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars Porsenna Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Is it green or greenish-yellow in color? Zinc primer was something used by WWII US combat aircraft. If so it may be describing the color, not the type of paint! If not carry on... BTW, Polly S is defunct. It has been replaced by Polly Scale (totally different formula paint; awesome for airbrushing, not as good for brushing...). Damon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enchantra Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Dang I will have to walk into Home Depot and see if anyone there knows of something that works similar to it. I have Reaper Paint on Primer but I would really love to be able to buy larger containers of primer instead fo spending $2.49 on a small bottle when I can probably buy a large can for a couple bucks more. To bad the Poly S people don't exist anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lars Porsenna Posted August 6, 2004 Share Posted August 6, 2004 Encahntra, my point was that its not primer, but a type of paint made to look like a SPECIFIC type of primer! WWII aircraft often had their cockpits, landing gear bays, and other areas left unfinished in this primer color. However, I do think there may be a zinc primer on the market. It would be interesting to hear how it would work... Damon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enchantra Posted August 7, 2004 Share Posted August 7, 2004 Encahntra, my point was that its not primer, but a type of paint made to look like a SPECIFIC type of primer! WWII aircraft often had their cockpits, landing gear bays, and other areas left unfinished in this primer color. However, I do think there may be a zinc primer on the market. It would be interesting to hear how it would work... Damon. I understand that it is paint and not primer. I would just be using it like a primer. Hence why I referred to it as such. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sycophant Posted August 7, 2004 Author Share Posted August 7, 2004 Encahntra, my point was that its not primer, but a type of paint made to look like a SPECIFIC type of primer! WWII aircraft often had their cockpits, landing gear bays, and other areas left unfinished in this primer color. However, I do think there may be a zinc primer on the market. It would be interesting to hear how it would work... Damon. I understand that it is paint and not primer. I would just be using it like a primer. Hence why I referred to it as such. Rrreoooowwwrrrr.. Have a bad day, Enchantra? Mebbe you need to listen to some more aggressive music and let go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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