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I finished Mason Thornwarden a little earlier today. He's painted up to a (hopefully) decent tabletop standard. I've been reading a lot about Rangers of Shadowdeep on various blogs all over the internet; I can neither confirm nor deny that is what may have led to his selection for the paintbrush.
Let me know what you think of him, please.
This is a Patrick Keith sculpt from the Warlord range and I have loved it since it came out years ago. She would be a really cool player character, I don't know why we don't see her more often. Great dynamic movement with this one. Anyway, I threw some color on her, so maybe she'll end up on the table one day.
This is a relatively recent paint job and I struggled with colors for a while before taking inspiration from another model and strengthening the contrast in places. I like the model but she feels very stiff and doll-like.
Or maybe she doesn't like the light in her eyes:
Fiddled around with some freehand on the back:
I have more armor on the workbench. At the end I will have used acrylics, enamel paints, oil paints and pigments.
After I finished building all four vehicles, including some modifications to represent a specific unit, I primed them with gray Stynylrez primer with an airbrush.
After that had cured I followed up with the primary color, dunkelgelb, using Ammo by Mig acrylic, again with the airbrush using, or trying to use, some color modulation.
I followed that with the camo pattern, no masking was used because I wanted a soft or feathered edge.
I sealed the pattern with a satin varnish. Decals are best applied on a glassy surface but a satin or semi-gloss gives the surface a bit more “tooth”.
After the decals were applied I sealed the with another coat of satin finish.
Now its time for the fun part, weathering! I start with oils to fade the colors which starts to introduce some more tones to the vehicles. It doesn’t take much to make it fade and this is just one of several techniques to do this. At the same time I darkened some the colors in some areas too.
You need to let the fading dry for at least 24 hours before you move on. Fading was followed by a pin wash which can definitely be tedious to apply. Try and keep it neat so there is less to clean up.
I used odor less enamel thinner to clean things up. Just use a damp brush not a wet brush for this. It’s easy to go overboard and effect the paint work.
Now I just need to do this on three more and I can move on to the next step.
This was a repaint from earlier this year. I bought Quickshade Strong Tone for speed painting some of my board games and tried it in Woody. I liked the way it worked for the most part but as you can tell I got some frosting when I matte coated it. Another thing that happened was my paint cracked on my base but I kinda like the way it looks. I probably won't bother fixing any of the issues as I moved on to another figure I am struggling with.
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