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Resin Printer Issues


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14 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

I also bought a little extension cord to relieve the connector from the stress.

 

4 hours ago, haldir said:

I bought one of these as well, but I started to experience problems with my usb stick. I've stopped using it & I haven't had problems since. I may try it again with the new lcd installed.

 

The USB connector on the side of the printer chassis is also just an extension cable to the connector installed on the main board.  It is possible that there is a problem with that cable, or the connection it makes with the USB port on the main board is loose.

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Suddenly my Mini 4K isn't printing anything, not even a blob of cured resin sticking to the FEP.

 

The UV is working, but I don't know if the LCD is somehow stuck on Opaque black.

 

How do you even check that?

 

I got a bad print the run before, not sticking to the plate, and a thin film of cured resin over the entire bottom of the vat, now not even that. Nothing solid at all.

Edited by PaganMegan
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10 minutes ago, PaganMegan said:

Suddenly my Mini 4K isn't printing anything, not even a blob of cured resin sticking to the FEP.

 

The UV is working, but I don't know if the LCD is somehow stuck on Opaque black.

 

How do you even check that?

 

I got a bad print the run before, not sticking to the plate, and a thin film of cured resin over the entire bottom of the vat, now not even that. Nothing solid at all.

 

So are you saying that you run the LCD test and it looks fine, but nothing is printing?

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3 hours ago, Auberon said:

 

So are you saying that you run the LCD test and it looks fine, but nothing is printing?

 

Looking at the test - it definitely looks like the screen is as close to opaque as it can get - there is some light leak, but it is a lot less than the places the light comes through the case. (Does anyone know how opaque the LCD screen normally gets? I could,'t find an example to compare.)

 

Using the CTB file, first layer looks pretty much the same as the full screen test.

 

So, I am thinking that the LCD is toast - which might be the best case scenario. (If it is the control hardware....) At some point tomorrow, I will tear it apart and put it back together, maybe we will be lucky and it will be just a bad connection.

 

We had a thundershower the other night, I am wondering if there might have been some power fluctuation.

 

Also, the tape around the screen looks to have had the adhesive eaten away. most likely by the alcohol we use to clean any spills.

 

The Auld Grump

 

 

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11 minutes ago, TheAuldGrump said:

 

Looking at the test - it definitely looks like the screen is as close to opaque as it can get - there is some light leak, but it is a lot less than the places the light comes through the case. (Does anyone know how opaque the LCD screen normally gets? I could,'t find an example to compare.)

 

Using the CTB file, first layer looks pretty much the same as the full screen test.

 

So, I am thinking that the LCD is toast - which might be the best case scenario. (If it is the control hardware....) At some point tomorrow, I will tear it apart and put it back together, maybe we will be lucky and it will be just a bad connection.

 

We had a thundershower the other night, I am wondering if there might have been some power fluctuation.

 

Also, the tape around the screen looks to have had the adhesive eaten away. most likely by the alcohol we use to clean any spills.

 

The Auld Grump

 

My 4K LCD is decently bright in use.  Here is Phrozen's video:

 

https://youtu.be/cC0EzBajusQ

 

3D Printing Pro tried to show off the LCD during his review.  You can skip to about the 9 minute mark.

 

https://youtu.be/LHSYVJfxpyA

 

If you need it...

 

https://phrozen3d.com/apps/help-center/maintanence/how-do-i-replace-the-mainboard-on-my-phrozen-3d-printer

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37 minutes ago, Auberon said:

 

My 4K LCD is decently bright in use.  Here is Phrozen's video:

 

https://youtu.be/cC0EzBajusQ

 

3D Printing Pro tried to show off the LCD during his review.  You can skip to about the 9 minute mark.

 

https://youtu.be/LHSYVJfxpyA

 

If you need it...

 

https://phrozen3d.com/apps/help-center/maintanence/how-do-i-replace-the-mainboard-on-my-phrozen-3d-printer

Yeah - definitely brighter than what we got - pretty sure we didn't get 2000 hours out of it.

 

Ah well, hopefully we can replace this one, and get it working again.

 

The Auld Grump

 

 

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On 6/18/2021 at 7:09 PM, TheAuldGrump said:

So, I am thinking that the LCD is toast - which might be the best case scenario. (If it is the control hardware....) At some point tomorrow, I will tear it apart and put it back together, maybe we will be lucky and it will be just a bad connection.

 

There is also the possibility that the cable has come loose, worth a  quick teardown before you pop in the new one at least.  
How bad are the screens for this one? I know my original photon they run about $40.

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4 hours ago, robinh said:

also check your power supply to make sure it is putting out the needed amperage.   Under powered will light up the screen but not give enough juice to cure the resin.   A power surge could have damage the unit.

Gawd, I hope not. But by how it looks where it comes out of the case, that isn't it - the LCD is dark, the lights aren't. It leaks a lot pf light out the vent.

 

The failed prints also look like the LCD going blooey. The next to last has a bunch of melty looking bottoms.

 

We already ordered the LCD, even if we don't need it NOW, we WILL need it.

 

We had it on a.surge protector and UPS, so it should have survived any surges, but it didn't.

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10 hours ago, TaleSpinner said:

Sounds like the LCD died.  You haven't had that very long.  Might want to contact Phrozen.  That thing is supposed to get 2000 hours.

Yeah, we did use it a LOT in that time, but 2,000 seems unlikely. 10 - 20 hours per day, but....

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Ok, so I think I may be having problems with my M4k. The last few weeks I've noticed prints would be missing supports & bits wouldn't print off. The last couple there hasn't been nothing on the plate. There would be a "bases", ie support base of resin where the prints were suppose to be (example I tried printing out the hands/weapons on a Artisan Guild lizardman hero & recently I tried printing out my artificer gnome for last night game & it's the same thing, just the support base. Since I have the nFep, they pop right off it, so clean up is easy, just annoying. 

 

Steps I've taken to remedy the problem:

I've releveled my build plate.

screws that hold the vat down are screwed down firmly

LCD is shining through & in full working order

I recently sanded my build plate using the provided sandpaper to give that more adhesion.

I'm using Phrozen 4k grey resin (thou I'm down to my last cup or so. Could that be the problem? I need to place a order for some more, but if my printer isn't working, I'd rather save the cash.)

 

I still need to print off a couple of pregren minis for RCon, so any help on this would be appreciated.

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Since I almost never have adhesion issues I would agree that you have something going on, but since I haven't had to deal with it I also haven't had to do much troubleshooting.  When I installed the flex plate it was too smooth out of the box, but the sandpaper included with the sm4k was all it needed.

 

I have been filtering and combining the leftovers through several bottles of the 4k grey and haven't had an issue with adhesion, so I would assume being down to 1 cup isn't a problem (other than the obvious being almost out).

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Well, I re-did everything last night (in the process I gave my printer a clean up). I decided to change out my resin for a bottle I had before I got the Phrozen brand (Shine-Shing or something like that). I needed a mini for today's game & decided to print that + it was a long print like 4 to 5 hrs, so overnight printing.

 

Woke up, came downstairs & SUCCESS!! So maybe it is the Phrozen resin, I'm thinkin maybe the bottle has been opened enough times & being it was down to the last cup or so, maybe it just lost it's potency to work. I'm gonna print off a longer print PC mini with the same resin, so hopefully it'll work again. I'll put in a order for a new bottle of Phrozen 4k resin later today.

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