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Resin Printer Issues


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10 hours ago, Ratmaster2000 said:

I agree, probably too small for a screw extractor? Maybe drill out the screw, get the cover off then install a new screw housing?

 

17 minutes ago, Gadgetman! said:

Drill them out, then re-tap the holes for a larger size bolt. 

 

Yeah, probably what I will be doing. Still need to swing by the hardware store today though, my hand drill can't hold a charge anymore and plugging it in isn't an option. Also need some proper sized bits.

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One thing... 

 

Black screws?

Those are high-strength bolts. 

Get a carbide drill-bit and a 'cutting oil'(WD-40 can be used if you don't find anything else) because a regular HSS drill-bit won't work on them. 

Drill slow, and lubricate thoroughly. 

If you're very careful you may be able to drill off just the head. Then you should be able to lift the cover anyway, and the rest of the screw should be accessible without much fuss.

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35 minutes ago, Gadgetman! said:

One thing... 

 

Black screws?

Those are high-strength bolts. 

Get a carbide drill-bit and a 'cutting oil'(WD-40 can be used if you don't find anything else) because a regular HSS drill-bit won't work on them. 

Drill slow, and lubricate thoroughly. 

If you're very careful you may be able to drill off just the head. Then you should be able to lift the cover anyway, and the rest of the screw should be accessible without much fuss.

Itty bitty ones on the sides of the Elegoo Mars, they are flush with the two side panels. This is a pic of one of the ones I was able to remove.

 

IMG_20210114_175827_3.thumb.jpg.b71f5646577b4b7ff5304453eff24a6f.jpg

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These are 10.9?

Regular shiny Stainless Steel is 8.8  

These are Alloy Steel that has been Quenched and tempered.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ASTM_F568M

 

It's way overkill for the use, but the price isn't all that much more, and they only use them because they look better. 

Those screws are Metric size, so the outer measurement of the threads should be pretty much exactly whole millimeters. 

 

Don't think you can drill them out all the way. They're much harder than the metal around them, and if the drill-bit strays even a little bit, it will quickly careen out to the side.  

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On 1/15/2021 at 12:54 PM, Gadgetman! said:

These are 10.9?

Regular shiny Stainless Steel is 8.8  

These are Alloy Steel that has been Quenched and tempered.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ASTM_F568M

 

It's way overkill for the use, but the price isn't all that much more, and they only use them because they look better. 

Those screws are Metric size, so the outer measurement of the threads should be pretty much exactly whole millimeters. 

 

Don't think you can drill them out all the way. They're much harder than the metal around them, and if the drill-bit strays even a little bit, it will quickly careen out to the side.  

Nope, wasn't quite able to, but I did get the heads removed and was able to get the casing off. Fortunately, there are enough intact screws that I can keep the casing in place without having to worry about the missing screws.

 

However, I was able to get the job done.

 

Before:

 

 


IMG_20201031_093503_1_(1).thumb.jpg.2ec2f0b0b092b68f3131098e0687d505.jpg
 

 

 

After:

 

 


IMG_20210116_114747_7.thumb.jpg.a1ff06ec672639ada7e680c3e8a50617.jpg
 

 

 

Very much improved. I somehow managed to get everything plugged in the right spots on the first try and everything came up ok. I currently have a print job going but it wont be done until early tomorrow morning. 

 

All in all, other than the issues with the screws this was not too bad of a process. Having prior experience digging through the guts of a computer helped a bit.

Edited by Illithar
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2 minutes ago, Glitterwolf said:

 

What happened?

 

Near as I can tell, I managed to get a small spill of resin under the resin tank.  It wicked along the edge, and then cured (without affecting the print).  When I pulled the resin tank to change resins, the LCD came with it.  You live, you learn, you add tape just in case.  ;)

 

 

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2 minutes ago, warlordgarou said:

Near as I can tell, I managed to get a small spill of resin under the resin tank.  It wicked along the edge, and then cured (without affecting the print).  When I pulled the resin tank to change resins, the LCD came with it.  You live, you learn, you add tape just in case.  ;)

 

 

 

Ah yes, I used Kapton tape for that ( it needs to be able to withstand the heat)

 

Was changing the LCD screen difficult?

I have a spare since I know it's a consumable but I fear the time I need to change it.

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2 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

 

Ah yes, I used Kapton tape for that ( it needs to be able to withstand the heat)

 

Was changing the LCD screen difficult?

I have a spare since I know it's a consumable but I fear the time I need to change it.

I’m using electrical tape now (which I’ve been told is adequate, if less than ideal).  Changing the screen took maybe 45 minutes, but a lot of that was either dealing with the old tape residue  or applying the new tape.  When I have to do it again, I think it will only be 30 minutes at most.

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On 9/25/2020 at 9:10 AM, Illithar said:

Well, I guess I'll start with what I woke up to this morning. Not so much a failure, I'm more baffled at how it, by some miracle, didn't fail. I apologize for the generally poor quality of the photos, this was all done shortly after getting out of bed this morning. The print came out mostly ok, it didn't fail, there's a small hole in the print proper in the first picture, and near the bottom there's the miss print caused by the support failures. Honestly though, the way the supports failed I'm surprised this came out at all. It doesn't appear to be distorted, but I also have tried assembling everything onto it yet. It will need some cleanup, but considering it's the base I can work with it. 

 

I suspect this was caused by FEP damage or other issues with the FEP. I may swap it out tonight if not tomorrow. I'll be using FEP from another pack I received yesterday from what I feel is a more reputable manufacturer. Hopefully that goes better.

 

 

  Reveal hidden contents

 

 


IMG_20200925_062921_7.thumb.jpg.01dfce2cb51fd5c7a7e5c18ed67b7874.jpg

IMG_20200925_062931_5.thumb.jpg.27c4a09733a390924be9294675e0b93c.jpg

IMG_20200925_062947_6.thumb.jpg.714408dd7f2e8eecb46ca1168f2c30b4.jpg
 

 

 

 

HEY! So, I wanted to revisit this issue, as I believe I have found the cause. Even after replacing the LED/Lens array I was still seeing this issue occur on other prints, however I realized that it was only occurring on prints done with Lychee. Or rather it wasn't happening with files using Chitubox supports. So, what's the difference?

 

THESE (Chitubox Pictured)

452829381_Screenshot2021-01-28143654.thumb.png.0ec514ace97ef18bf8341942555baa24.png

 

Lychee:

761683977_Screenshot2021-01-28144048.png.a55cc9a90133d2902c3d0b855906a837.png

 

I never really thought about the missing 'feet' at the bottom of the supports. I don't think I consciously noticed it until I stumbled upon a Reddit post of someone ranting about how they don't like Lychee. These little cone shaped feet seem to actually improve the reliability of supports, especially if you don't have a fully optimized printer or printing environment. Now, these feet are in Chitubox by default and can't be turned off as near as I can tell. However in Lychee, they aren't, and... they are behind a paywall. You have to have the pro version of Lychee to give your supports feet. There is a 30 day trial and I used that to test that the feat would help. I did my own supports on some files and printed them up and TADA! no issues, no weird failures like shown in the original post. I'd toss up some pictures but I forgot to take any before removing the supports and all that. But...

 

The file from the original post:

2012084062_Screenshot2021-01-28145314.thumb.png.0d5d9cea901b14e33e305df6968a0d84.png

The file does have the support feat, but a lot of them get eaten up by the raft. And those are the supports that had the odd failure issue.

 

Now a side note about the paywall. Was I bit salty about this being behind a paywall? Yes. But... I may still get it, it's $4ish a month (yay exchange rates) and I pay way more than that in Patreons each month and I've been playing with some of the other features and they are kind of nice to have...

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7 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

I only use chitubox, it does the job.

My biggest concern with Lychee is the presupports.

Try tinkering with those supports if you need to alter them, won't work.

Chitubox presupports, you can.

 

Uhh yes you can? I manipulate presupported lychee files just fine, and you don't need the paid version to do it either. If the supports are baked in as part of the STL, then no you can't, but the same is true with Chitubox. Are you sure you are opening the .lys files and not the presupported .stl file?

image.png.4b1c1e69bbf7d407427f4aecc20964fb.png

 

EDIT: Sorry, I feel like my original reply may have seemed a little hostile. But, you can make adjustment to presupported lychee files. I've done it on the free version for a while. The paid version does offer additional options, but the free version offers comparable functions to Chitubox. Admittedly, some are missing such as the features I mentioned above.

 

Edited by Illithar
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13 hours ago, Illithar said:

Uhh yes you can? I manipulate presupported lychee files just fine, and you don't need the paid version to do it either. If the supports are baked in as part of the STL, then no you can't, but the same is true with Chitubox. Are you sure you are opening the .lys files and not the presupported .stl file?

image.png.4b1c1e69bbf7d407427f4aecc20964fb.png

 

EDIT: Sorry, I feel like my original reply may have seemed a little hostile. But, you can make adjustment to presupported lychee files. I've done it on the free version for a while. The paid version does offer additional options, but the free version offers comparable functions to Chitubox. Admittedly, some are missing such as the features I mentioned above.

 

 

I didn't read it as hostile at all, no worries.

 

I think I'm confusing the bold part with the program.

I've seen many LYS files where this was the case and I just removed them and used/saved the unsupported files.

I also do this with presupports for chitubox, I might keep a presupported file if it's not baked in, but if there's a raft or something, I just drop it.

 

I've come to the conclusion that I prefer unsupported files.

That way I can align the model like I want to save print time and support it right without islands.

So many presupported files just still have flaws, I rather do it myself.

 

And I prefer chitubox, probably because I now know how it works.

So maybe I just don't know enough about LYS.

Thanks for explaining a bit more about it.

 

 

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In my quest to change out the stock fans, or at least one of them in Photon S, I came across this:

 

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3013054

 

Sounds like what I'll need. Reading the comments sections thou, kinda dashes my hopes a bit. I wanna stick a 120mm "silence" fan in there as the one that is currently in there has a whine when the plate goes down to start a job. It's a common thing with my printer according to both the facebookey group & reddit group (no we aren't messing with Anycubic's stocks.....::P:) I'm part of. I guess I'll find whatever one I need, print it out & see how it goes.

 

Anyone ever change out their stock fans to bigger ones in a Photon (S or regular)?

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