Jump to content

FDM Printer Issues


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

21 minutes ago, Gadgetman! said:

Looks like under extrusion?  

Have you checked the thickness of your filament? 

 

hmm, this was a brand new spool and I forgot to do that, but I've had it happening with filaments I have calibrated for.  Only seems to happen on the first layer or the first layer on top of a raft or support.  on the first layer I'd just think bad leveling or bed adhesion, but that shouldn't be coming in to play by the time you get to the top of a raft, and the raft went down without issue.  in fact the first layer of the raft is perfect......

Edited by Cygnwulf
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

ok, updated to glass bed, I have some tiny binder clips holding the corners, the only problem is that the part cooler duct on my print head keeps hitting them.  Ender 3 pro, stock print head.  Does anyone else use a glass bed, and what do you use to hold it down?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Cygnwulf said:

ok, updated to glass bed, I have some tiny binder clips holding the corners, the only problem is that the part cooler duct on my print head keeps hitting them.  Ender 3 pro, stock print head.  Does anyone else use a glass bed, and what do you use to hold it down?

 

When I had my Ender 3 out, I used binder clips as well. I just positioned them to where they wouldn't hit anything. (I wanna say front & back on the plate). I also took off the arms on the top half of them. It worked pretty well when I was using my Ender 3.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

yeah, that's what I've done, I have them here

 IMG_20210201_093804441.thumb.jpg.fd467028bf7717c54147b830bc0a8f6e.jpg

 

I normally level right over the screws but I had to move the clips or measure further in because of them.  You can see some remnants of where I was too close with the level test, I had the clips moved to the center of the plate there so it didn't hit while I was doing that.
These are 10mm clips, the smallest that would open wide enough to go on.
 

I'm looking at printing the gen 5 hero-me, (I broke the gen3 I was using when I was dealing with a clog and couldn't get the tube out of the heat sink, just never got around to reprinting it.  it looks like it will have more clearance on the front so  maybe that will help.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I removed the clips altogether...  

 

Look for 'silicone heatsink transfer pad' on eBay. 

The ones you want is 100x100mm in size, and no more than 0.5mm thick.  

Cut it into 4 squares(I used 50x50mm squares, but 25x25mm - that's just under 1x1" probably works just fine)  

Place one square in each cornerof the heated bed and place the glass on top. 

It should stick pretty well. 

 

A bonus is that you get a physical separation between the layers, so that any unevenness in themetl bed won't be transferred to the glass. 

The disadvantage is that if you for one reason or other want to remove the print bed, you'll have to use a sharp knife...  

 

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Getting very frustrated with my Ender3.  The BLTouch crashed and died, and I was having problems upgrading the firmware on the board (because the firmware kept killing prints because it was looking for info from the BLTouch).  Upgraded the board, new firmware, and now the nozzle jumps up almost a full centimeter from the board when it starts printing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 hours ago, warlordgarou said:

Getting very frustrated with my Ender3.  The BLTouch crashed and died, and I was having problems upgrading the firmware on the board (because the firmware kept killing prints because it was looking for info from the BLTouch).  Upgraded the board, new firmware, and now the nozzle jumps up almost a full centimeter from the board when it starts printing.

 

My first thought would be to check the start code in your slicer. Make sure you don't have it doing anything bltouch related or specific to the old board. In particular look for any G0 or G1 code that moves the Z axis.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 1/5/2021 at 4:44 PM, Cygnwulf said:

upgraded to the silent mainboard last night on my ender 3 pro.  Ho-ly cats they weren't kidding about the word 'silent'.  The loudest thing on it now is the fans.  Even the sound of the spool spinning and the plastic coming off of it was louder than the stepper motors.  

Huge change isn't it?  
The first week after I did mine I kept forgetting it was running behind me, and then it would actually make a noise and startle me.....

 

 

I *think* I finally might have my clogging issues cleared on my Ender.  Hope so, I think I burnt myself 3 times.....
I'm trying this filament at 190 to see if it will behave better.  I was running at 200.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Jasper_the_2nd said:

Huge change isn't it?  
The first week after I did mine I kept forgetting it was running behind me, and then it would actually make a noise and startle me.....

 

 

I *think* I finally might have my clogging issues cleared on my Ender.  Hope so, I think I burnt myself 3 times.....
I'm trying this filament at 190 to see if it will behave better.  I was running at 200.

 

If you haven't done the hotend fix yet, it's the simplest and most effective way to end clogging due to bowden tube slipping, which is the main cause of clogging.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 minute ago, cmorse said:

 

If you haven't done the hotend fix yet, it's the simplest and most effective way to end clogging due to bowden tube slipping, which is the main cause of clogging.

The put a piece of capricorn in the hot end and "lock" it in method?

If so, I was doing that until I swapped the hotend (after my old one broke).  The new one came with a tube preinstalled and I was hoping it would behave for a little while, but I'm getting ready to do that tomorrow if I can find everything.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...