Cygnwulf 6622 Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Well, this is annoying. I printed on a raft and I still have perimeters in my first layer that pulled up...... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gadgetman! 20107 Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 Looks like under extrusion? Have you checked the thickness of your filament? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cygnwulf 6622 Posted January 14 Report Share Posted January 14 (edited) 21 minutes ago, Gadgetman! said: Looks like under extrusion? Have you checked the thickness of your filament? hmm, this was a brand new spool and I forgot to do that, but I've had it happening with filaments I have calibrated for. Only seems to happen on the first layer or the first layer on top of a raft or support. on the first layer I'd just think bad leveling or bed adhesion, but that shouldn't be coming in to play by the time you get to the top of a raft, and the raft went down without issue. in fact the first layer of the raft is perfect...... Edited January 14 by Cygnwulf 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cygnwulf 6622 Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 ok, updated to glass bed, I have some tiny binder clips holding the corners, the only problem is that the part cooler duct on my print head keeps hitting them. Ender 3 pro, stock print head. Does anyone else use a glass bed, and what do you use to hold it down? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
haldir 46049 Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 9 minutes ago, Cygnwulf said: ok, updated to glass bed, I have some tiny binder clips holding the corners, the only problem is that the part cooler duct on my print head keeps hitting them. Ender 3 pro, stock print head. Does anyone else use a glass bed, and what do you use to hold it down? When I had my Ender 3 out, I used binder clips as well. I just positioned them to where they wouldn't hit anything. (I wanna say front & back on the plate). I also took off the arms on the top half of them. It worked pretty well when I was using my Ender 3. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cygnwulf 6622 Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 yeah, that's what I've done, I have them here I normally level right over the screws but I had to move the clips or measure further in because of them. You can see some remnants of where I was too close with the level test, I had the clips moved to the center of the plate there so it didn't hit while I was doing that. These are 10mm clips, the smallest that would open wide enough to go on. I'm looking at printing the gen 5 hero-me, (I broke the gen3 I was using when I was dealing with a clog and couldn't get the tube out of the heat sink, just never got around to reprinting it. it looks like it will have more clearance on the front so maybe that will help. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
haldir 46049 Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 I always put them in the corners & I never had a problem of the nozzle striking them. I'm not sure what the size but it was the tiny ones. I'm sure I had the same thickness glass plate thou. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Gadgetman! 20107 Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 I removed the clips altogether... Look for 'silicone heatsink transfer pad' on eBay. The ones you want is 100x100mm in size, and no more than 0.5mm thick. Cut it into 4 squares(I used 50x50mm squares, but 25x25mm - that's just under 1x1" probably works just fine) Place one square in each cornerof the heated bed and place the glass on top. It should stick pretty well. A bonus is that you get a physical separation between the layers, so that any unevenness in themetl bed won't be transferred to the glass. The disadvantage is that if you for one reason or other want to remove the print bed, you'll have to use a sharp knife... 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cygnwulf 6622 Posted February 1 Report Share Posted February 1 I'll see what I can come up with 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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