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    • By nakos
      In the Reaper Live videos, it's been mentioned that most rattle primers are ok to use. But no one that I've seen has mentioned their results of spray priming their bones black, so I thought that I would post my results here. I hope that others will post theirs as well. 
       
      Cleaning and prepping mold lines on bones black is very different than regular bones. I would compare it to other gaming companies hard plastic while still having a little bit more flexibility. 
       
      So far I've used the following primers, I'll add to this list as I use new ones:
      Krylon Colormaster White primer- quick drying time with light spraying, no stickiness, no granular texture associated with light dusting. The white stayed relatively white unlike on other plastic models. 
       
      Rustoleum 2X Paint+Primer Satin Poppy Red- Smooth coverage, no texturing. However, after 24hrs is still slightly tacky to the touch. In places where I've scrapped mold lines away the plastic underneath is not tacky. I'll give it a few more days to cure and then I'll try stripping it and see how that goes. The tackiness maybe due to the satin primer rather than the more commonly used flat primer. ETU: 60 hrs and no change in the tackiness so I used isopropyl to strip it with no issues.
    • By Ducknuck84
      I know that Bones do not take spray primer without staying sticky but have read that the vallejo brush on primer works well. The question is that if you put the bush on primer first can you add a spray one primer after without the mini staying sticky? I know that the vallejo's can be airbrushed on but because i don't have a dedicated painting area its kind of a pain to drag out the airbrush to try out two tone priming. 
    • By Sophie was taken
      I’ve got some of both these products, but I’m not sure exactly how they’re supposed to be used.
       
      I’ve tried the primer a few times, but compared to spray primer it’s very liquidy (not a surprise, since it’s a liquid). The issue is I don’t know if it is being properly applied or just running off into the cracks. It doesn’t turn the metal white, but I don’t even know if that is supposed to happen or not. Am I using it correctly?
       
      As for the brush-on sealer, what is it for and what does it do? I’m assuming it goes on at the end, and if that means I don’t need to buy yet another aerosol product, that would be swell.
    • By ultrasquid
      At my friendly national chain home improvement store I found they sell mismixed paint colors at deep discounts. There I bought a 8 oz.(237 ml) sample pot of premium interior/exterior flat "paint and primer in one" for 50 cents. So I'm experimenting with using it as a primer for Bones. I will report on how it goes. In the meantime, feel free to discuss your budget alternatives.
    • By Gargs
      Quick question regarding Bones and Greenstuff.  I have a couple of Bones minis I'm going to be painting up here shortly that desperately need some gap filling done on them.  I know that Bones minis generally do not need to be primed (other than maybe a thin layer of liner) but how does the GS used to fill gaps interact?  Do I still need to hit it with some primer?  
       
      On a related question, have any of you used the liquid green stuff?  I'm assuming that it is also potentially pretty hard on brushes, much like brush on primer, but was curious as to what your experiences were.  Some of the areas I want to fill are actually fairly small gaps, so the liquid GS seems like it would be a good match.
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