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Beta Scout by Second dynasty (Pic heavy)


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Well I said I would try the WIP for this project so we will see how it goes...

 

Earlier this year I completed the print of the Beta scout created by second dynasty.  The print was pretty ambitious and wound up using over 2kg of filament

 

This was the completed print 20200624_223352.thumb.jpg.c6fcbc941d09cb933de74292abf72a7f.jpg20200624_223436.thumb.jpg.318d678452f91f2d7b8803d8750a8148.jpg20200704_114718.thumb.jpg.d8ec3eb1ae50df45aa0cb650cc4217dd.jpg20200704_114837.thumb.jpg.3e25ad9b1f7cc4a3f263d118f8643644.jpg

 

Then came a really long wait for badgers 3d leveling solution and  prime.  It worked pretty well though I think most of the work was the leveling solution rather than the prime 

20201106_204646.thumb.jpg.123bd068d2a32290a395f28719fbdc11.jpg

 

I decided to use the paint scheme from the starmaster from the TTA  books

skymasters.jpg.833e87352010fb6f3e1e317bae0ee17c.jpg

 

So I started with a scarlet paint from badgers airbrush paint line

20201106_211437.thumb.jpg.1c22724c153faa84ce7f7a7a44512eb3.jpg

 

But it wasn't red enough so I gave it a second coat with a ghost tint 'fresh blood 

20201106_211833.thumb.jpg.fb75e5e0cc71a7e86cc8148a8ff1724c.jpg

And that got me where I want to be.

 

Once its dry i can strip off the tape hiding the white lines and see how the edges did.  I still have a dark blue line in the back so more air brushing tomorrow then I can start painting the interior...

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3 hours ago, snitchythedog said:

Well cool and it looks like you are going for a similar paint scheme to my shuttle alpha.  The 70s style bright colours are much more interesting than drab greys and greens on most spaceship models.

I have always loved the space ships from the 70s and 80s.  So much color and vibrancy.  My first thought was for one of the patchwork patterns but this ship is so clean lined I wanted to give it a smooth, sleek look.  I may is the patchwork on the Slepnir which is my next major printing project

 

How did your alpha come out?

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15 minutes ago, Kangaroorex said:

How did your alpha come out?

Build log on my reaper forum terrain blog.

I looked long and hard at the Beta but I don't have a 3d printer and would have trouble justifying it to my wife.  Because it's cool does not work any more.   I also forgot to ask.  Do the STL files contain windows? 

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6 minutes ago, snitchythedog said:

Build log on my reaper forum terrain blog.

I looked long and hard at the Beta but I don't have a 3d printer and would have trouble justifying it to my wife.  Because it's cool does not work any more. 

 

Did you have someone print the alpha for you?  I want to know how to print that canopy!  That looks amazing!  And the interior is stunning too!  My print is not near as pretty as that one but with 100+ parts, redoing something is a choice made only when disaster strikes ::D:

 

Thanks for sharing that!  For my interior i was thinking blues with beige furniture (similar to my car)  

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1 minute ago, Kangaroorex said:

 

Did you have someone print the alpha for you?  I want to know how to print that canopy!  That looks amazing!  And the interior is stunning too!  My print is not near as pretty as that one but with 100+ parts, redoing something is a choice made only when disaster strikes ::D:

 

Thanks for sharing that!  For my interior i was thinking blues with beige furniture (similar to my car)  

I had a company print it over here.  They have a liquid resin printer that they do the clear canopies with.  Mine had some small flaws that quite frankley add to the model as they look like damage.  The sanding was a bugger though.  To get it clear and smooth I had to wet sand it with paper from 100grit to 2500 grit and the paint with Pledge multi surface wax.  

  If you want to print the canopy with your printer you can always make a silicone mould and cast it in clear resin.  Would be cheaper than a liquid resin printer.  Hirst arts has some good tutorials on how to make a silicone mould.  There is not much of a learning curve. 

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1 hour ago, snitchythedog said:

I had a company print it over here.  They have a liquid resin printer that they do the clear canopies with.  Mine had some small flaws that quite frankley add to the model as they look like damage.  The sanding was a bugger though.  To get it clear and smooth I had to wet sand it with paper from 100grit to 2500 grit and the paint with Pledge multi surface wax.  

  If you want to print the canopy with your printer you can always make a silicone mould and cast it in clear resin.  Would be cheaper than a liquid resin printer.  Hirst arts has some good tutorials on how to make a silicone mould.  There is not much of a learning curve. 

 

Thanks for the info  I always feel a little guilty about making a permanent silicon mold for a single cast.  When i get around to printing the shuttle, i will probably use clear filament, sand the heck out of it and then tint it gold and call it heat reflective glass ::D:

 

the company did  a nice job on the print though.  I got a pretty good surface with the leveler i used.  Except for one section of the ship, just to see if there was a difference, there has been no sanding to the original surface.  you can see a few print lines but overall i think the result is good and it beats the hours and hours i would have spent sanding the surface, (PLA is surprising ly tough!)

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I do need to get this beast off my desk!  Its taking up way too much space.  Also trying to decide if I should try and preserve the hull modularity and leave the clips (making the structure a tad fragile) or use some epoxy and bond the ship as a single unit (not going to be making any changes but it will be much more robust on the gaming table.)  with some of the print issues I had, I am leaning to permanence and building another with the options I want later (I want the stretched version and the camper version which was the reason for considering the modularity).

 

today I hope to get the living section done and maybe get a start on the engines

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15 hours ago, Kangaroorex said:

Worked some more on the ship today.  Completed the dark stripe in the back (using midnight blue ghost tint

20201108_202837.thumb.jpg.36a52e01ed450e9063f6e3b390779c0f.jpg

20201108_202829.thumb.jpg.0879c50d2d9a362a3d651368caec2f5c.jpg

That makes it pop.  Red and white was nice, red white and blue makes it much more snazzy.  You were asking about leaving the clips or gluing it.  My question to you would be what are you going to use it for and does it need to be modular?  I glued mine but that is becasue I abhor modular pieces in terrain and that is a personal choice.  If you are playing mostly RPG or a narrative based miniature games then my suggestion would be to use the clips as you can change the layout later.  If it is a static piece of scenery or will only be used for wargames objectives then glue it.  They do take up some space don't they!^_^

 

Edit:  You could also go half way.  Use superglue gel to tack it in place in memorable spots then you have the option to separate it later.  Just use a blob somewhere near the surface on an interior seam and then place it upright while setting.  The blob will stay in place and can be cut then chipped out later if need be.  Still use the clips as I do not think it will hold up to normal use with just the glue. 

 

I also need to know.  Does the STL come with a file for windows?  As this is still on my megawinthelotteryretirementwishlist. 

Edited by snitchythedog
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