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Bones USA Feedback Thread.


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Of the new ones, I think it's just the Krampus in it for sure, I think the only other that was made in the USA of mine isn't the bones USA (The Halloween Ghost King). Haven't started on the Krampus yet, didn't fully prime the ghost king since I wanted to maintain some of the translucence, but I'm pretty sure that's another material entirely.

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9 hours ago, SotF said:

Of the new ones, I think it's just the Krampus in it for sure, I think the only other that was made in the USA of mine isn't the bones USA (The Halloween Ghost King). Haven't started on the Krampus yet, didn't fully prime the ghost king since I wanted to maintain some of the translucence, but I'm pretty sure that's another material entirely.

@SotF

Top Tip: Prime translucents with clear varnish, it gets rid of the hydrophobia (that the paint sometimes won't stick to the model in patches) and lets both paints and washes stick to the material without affecting the translucency. Use matte or satin for regular paints or washes, gloss if you want the jelly bean-look :)

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Given the 3D model image of Lysette shown in the announcement, either the master is 3D printed, and a semilflexible mold is used, or the mold is CNC milled and PVC or other flexible plastic is injection molded. Both options support undercuts, but the second would last much longer.  Ejecting the plastic while still hot would lead to the deformation seen and the fact hot water won't reset it, as it was still very warm when ejected. You'd need to get closer to the glass transition temp.

Are there any signs of sprue or runner lines?

Ahh, something like this I think:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w5KRawOXy4U

Which is actually the first video I found ever showing how PVC action figures are made. See how soft they are when pulled? 

Edited by Crusoe the Painter
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The Bones USA models have mould lines just like other bones models, so a 2 or more part mould is used. There was a broken gate-piece (which broke off flush to the base at a touch) with some extra material beneath the base of one of them, and corresponding marks on all, which I believe would be indicative of a sprue containing several minis at once, similar to the centre round sprue-thing (whatever it's called) seen when casting metal models.

There were also vent-like bits of pointy flash at extremes such as the tip of swords, tip of staff, tip of the bow. This would be to avoid air bubbles forming (showing the importance of learning from the Finecast experience)

 

That is a great and informative video there, though it seems to skip quite a few steps.

Indeed, thermoplastic models need to be soft when pulled to enable undercuts. Then the plastic memory sets as they cool down, which causes bendy noodle weapons, deformations and all that. In this video we see the watertank they use for this.

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I got the Krampus Bones USA model. Details look very crisp. I primed with Reaper brush on grey primer before painting. No noticeable issue.

 

The only drawback so far, as mentioned by Ed in a Reaper Live video, is the material is more brittle than original Bones. I tried to use a plastic clipper to remove the original base and it led to some of the Krampus hoof to break off with the base. I then used a hobby knife to attempt a more careful cut...but that also made a small chip off the other hoof. Most likely for Bones USA material I will use a hobby saw for a slower more cautious removal of base. 

 

So the positive of Bones USA - details look very crisp

Positive of original Bones - durability and ease of conversions

Bones Black - I have not worked with that material yet...

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10 hours ago, Maledrakh said:

@SotF

Top Tip: Prime translucents with clear varnish, it gets rid of the hydrophobia (that the paint sometimes won't stick to the model in patches) and lets both paints and washes stick to the material without affecting the translucency. Use matte or satin for regular paints or washes, gloss if you want the jelly bean-look :)

I know how to do it, it's more of the combo of things for how I wanted to paint it. I went through getting the armor plates with a brush on primer so that I could get metals to look right. Cloth was lightly drybrushed along with the boney parts (though with different colors), the real pain was getting a fade from metals to the translucent for the sword.

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@Reaper_JonSo, is lisette the only model available ATM? I know on the website it shows all the LTPK models (like mangu and the skeletons), but can you only get those in the kit? I have been trying to get more skeleton archers and no restock has come, any chance we can get the individual LTPK mini's? I'd love to see how the new archers in Bones USA are:) 

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Not sure if all the metals are done in USA, but i recently ordered this and noticed something strange on this one, three things in fact. 

 

There's 3 cracks I've never come across on white metal before.   

 

 

Screenshot_20210102-115354_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20210102-115253_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20210102-115329_Gallery.jpg

20210102_115049.jpg

20210102_115040.jpg

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The 3rd Crack is hard to see in this light, but you can see it running further down like a lightning bolt in the metal.  Not super visible now, but if i prime it, it'll show like Harry Potter's forehead.  I'll seal it with some epoxy before prime, but just hadn't seen that before.  

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18 minutes ago, R2ED said:

Not sure if all the metals are done in USA

 

They are. That's why the metal models are almost never out of stock; they can cast any on demand in Texas for you if you order from the webstore. If you ever get to do a Reaper factory tour or see a video of one you'll see all of the rubber molds for each figure on many many shelves.

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Thanks for the clarity.  I am still "new" and don't quite have a handle on all the production and what not.  I saw a thread for feedback and since this was ordered just a few weeks ago, i thought it may be related.  Either way, still good to know if issues ask they don't persist or get worse down the road.  Nice to know there's so many eyes on these topics to help both steer and give input.  Thank you both @Ratmaster2000 and @ManvsMini

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4 minutes ago, R2ED said:

Thanks for the clarity.  I am still "new" and don't quite have a handle on all the production and what not.  I saw a thread for feedback and since this was ordered just a few weeks ago, i thought it may be related.  Either way, still good to know if issues ask they don't persist or get worse down the road.  Nice to know there's so many eyes on these topics to help both steer and give input.  Thank you both @Ratmaster2000 and @ManvsMini

I actually got that mini for the holiday, I'll check mine and see what she looks like. I'd go ahead and shoot an email to [email protected] and see what they say? If it's a defect, they'll definitely get you taken care of.

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It's not the end of the world.  I'm pretty sure they can be filled in.  I mean, if they want to send another i won't say no, but I'm already so impressed with how Reaper addresses their community.  This is a minor thing. 

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