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Auberon Prints Mini Things


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a.k.a. Why does Glitterwolf get to have all the fun?

 

Yeah, my Sonic Mini 4K has finally arrived and I can get in on the 3D printing action.  It took about a month to ship and then a week in the mail from Taiwan (which included sitting the long Christmas weekend in Memphis TN) so Fed-Ex did all right with the shipment...  Or did they?

 

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It kind of looks like somebody dropped the box and then dropped a box on the box for good measure.  Fortunately it was well padded.

 

And that's all you get for the night.  It spent 6 hours riding around on a delivery truck through the snow.  Nothing was phrozen, but it's pretty darn cold.  I'm going to let everything sit and warm up for a few hours before I do anything.

 

Well ok, I can give you a shot of the default settings in Chitubox.  Those aren't going to last!

 

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And success!  Nothing fell off and after it was done, most of the prints popped off when the plate was flexed. I have now printed all of the Loot welcome pack heroes at default scale. I think at some

It has a very low angle.  Most of the  resin drains off of it but it could stand to be a few degrees steeper.   As promised I am returning with pics.  As a word of warning, my camera is old

a.k.a. Why does Glitterwolf get to have all the fun?   Yeah, my Sonic Mini 4K has finally arrived and I can get in on the 3D printing action.  It took about a month to ship and then a week i

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I ran a series of test prints earlier in order to see how my exposure times look.  I used a relatively flat test piece that allows me to print in about 15 minutes even with the layer height set to 0.02mm.  My results were pretty similar to what @TaleSpinner mentioned in another thread.  2 seconds is obviously overexposed, 1.75 seconds is slightly overexposed, 1.5 seconds is about right, while 1.1 seconds is noticeably underexposed. Here are the results together in a decent sized pic, with a ruler for scale. My camera really focused on the 1.75 seconds exposure, but they are in order from 2 down to 1.1 (when I tried 1.0 Chitubox wouldn't accept it, so I went with 1.1)

 

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As you can see the peel forces literally tore the underexposed test print apart, which brings up another issue.  The only area I really had to set up my printer is on the lower temperature limit of what I see recommended.  Lower temperatures = higher viscosity = greater peel force, but I have a few options.

  • Turn the heat up in the whole house just for 3D printing. ... ... Nope
  • Heat just the printing area or make a enclosure for it. Maybe someday but not today.
  • Decrease the lift speed. Can do, it just makes things take longer but I'm in no rush.
  • Overexpose the minis.  I'd rather not considering that will cause detail loss. OTOH I'm less concerned with bases so I could try different settings for some items.
  • Wait until summer.  It'll be warmer then.

I thought about printing some different test pieces like you see on youtube, but decided to skip straight to some minis.  One item on the agenda is to find some very detailed figures that I can use to compare different resins. Once I have another brand of resin of course.

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Resin printers have a unique advantage of being already enclosed, I've seen a number of people build/acquire small  heaters to place under the cover, to one side of the z rail where it's out of the way.  With the lift off cover on the
Another option I've seen - pre heat your resin.  Heat a container of water up and set the bottle of your resin down into it for 15-20 minutes before pouring it in to your vat. Start the print right away.  From there the heat generated by the curing resin and the light should be sufficient to retain the low viscosity.

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I'll be following.  I'm interested to see how things turnout for you.

 

I am wanting to get into printing but not sure when that will be.  I am trying to decide between the Elegoo Mars Pro or spending a bit more and get the Prozen Mini 4k so I am curious to see what kind of results you get.

 

18 hours ago, Auberon said:

 

It kind of looks like somebody dropped the box and then dropped a box on the box for good measure.  Fortunately it was well padded.

 

Reminds me of when I used to get fast food with my grandpa and he would always swear that the employees were required to step on your burger before they put it in the bag.

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9 hours ago, Cygnwulf said:

Resin printers have a unique advantage of being already enclosed, I've seen a number of people build/acquire small  heaters to place under the cover, to one side of the z rail where it's out of the way.  With the lift off cover on the
Another option I've seen - pre heat your resin.  Heat a container of water up and set the bottle of your resin down into it for 15-20 minutes before pouring it in to your vat. Start the print right away.  From there the heat generated by the curing resin and the light should be sufficient to retain the low viscosity.

 

I have read of both, but before I add a heater I'll see how it goes.  I'm not actually out of range, just pushing it.  Speaking of which I have minis!  It mostly went OK.  There are two partial failures and the rest look good.  See!

 

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So maybe I need to clean them up a bit first before you can really see anything.  I shall return.

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9 hours ago, Humansquish said:

Did your Mini 4k not come with an angled build plate? Shame on Phrozen.

 

It has a very low angle.  Most of the  resin drains off of it but it could stand to be a few degrees steeper.

 

As promised I am returning with pics.  As a word of warning, my camera is old and I don't buy my phones for the camera. The focus isn't always where I would have wanted it but I think you all will get the idea.  The background is a cutting mat so it's a 1" grid.  All of the minis I attempted to print were pre-supported and they all had a support fail somewhere.  There were also a couple of supports that were placed too close to the model and fused. But in the end this was a test run that gives me a better idea of what to look for when editing pre-supports.

 

First of all the successes.  Ignore the finger on the hand.  It printed fine but ran into problems later.

 

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For the first mini we have an elven wizard.  He lost his left leg below the knee, which is actually a bit surprising to me.  3DPrintingPro did the supports on this one and he always puts heavy supports on the bottom of the feet.

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Next is the female samurai.  The supports on her sword failed, and when the whole pancake started back up again she got a line across her head.  There were also a couple of supports that failed on her hair.  Of course the whole reason I printed her was to see how well the design on her sword came out.

 

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Then we have an elven sorceress. She actually looks worse than she printed.  I didn't realize how fragile the resin would be and broke her a bit cleaning her.  Her left arm didn't print right but the main things I was interested in was her spiraling staff and the design on her spellbook.  Those were more or less ok.

 

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And last but not least we have a dwarf.  This guy may claim to be 32mm but he is actually just a 75mm figure that the sculptor scaled down.  As such he is covered with all sorts of detail and I think he will become my resin test piece.  Detailed and short, what more could you ask for?  His only real failings were the bottom of his left gauntlet and a few supports that stuck to him. 

 

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And that's probably it for today.  I was going to try altering the supports and printing again, but it sounds like the weather is going to turn bad again tomorrow.  Support editing will have to wait.

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Even with 3DPrintingzpro presupports, do check for islands.

His first presupports are actually better than his later one, he's been pushing settings and if your settings differ a bit some lighter supports might fail.

Maybe add a light support as a helper to the leg which stopped printing.

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4 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

Even with 3DPrintingzpro presupports, do check for islands.

His first presupports are actually better than his later one, he's been pushing settings and if your settings differ a bit some lighter supports might fail.

Maybe add a light support as a helper to the leg which stopped printing.

 

I checked his helper supports and he had taken some of them down to 0.05mm contact point.  I get that he doesn't want to do cleanup, but still.  The supports on the elf's foot looked fine, but I went ahead and added some more.

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Looking over your models the areas with greebles look sharp & clean, but cloaks look like you can see the lines. How do they look in person? On mine I sometimes see lines and in most cases you can tell that when you primer it you won't see them anymore. There have only been a few cases where I felt I needed to sand lines off.

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Much like Buglips, I have the superhuman ability to take off my glasses and see things magnified.  I can see the lines then.  But with my glasses on and back to normal human vision the vast majority are barely visible.  I suspect that between priming and a basecoat 99% of them will be taken care of.  I will hopefully be able to try this tomorrow, assuming the "wintery mix" doesn't take out power.

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I ran a print overnight and took it off this morning.

 

The good:

  • I printed another base.
  • The dwarf above appears to have printed perfectly after I tweaked the presupports.

The bad:

  • I got to see the design on the samurai girl's sword but she still had some supports fail.
  • The elf wizard's leg printed just fine, but the back of his cloak had some issues.

The ugly

  • The elf sorceress was a few supports and a pile of goo.  Not sure what happened with her.  Chitubox did hang while exporting but I'm not sure if that is related.

 

So my plan, short term, is to do nothing because the power has already cut in and out a couple of times already. For my next attempt though I plan to up the exposure to 1.75 seconds and see what happens.  In theory I will have some detail loss but I don't know how much.

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