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4 minutes ago, Auberon said:

 

10mm + a bit of overhang.

 

 

At some point the active ingredients will degrade.  The companies are being conservative with their estimates to cover their behinds.  The question is, by how much?

 

My guess is you can use it a few months after the due date, but maybe not a year.

Oh well, my resin lasts a few months at the most...

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And success!  Nothing fell off and after it was done, most of the prints popped off when the plate was flexed. I have now printed all of the Loot welcome pack heroes at default scale. I think at some

a.k.a. Why does Glitterwolf get to have all the fun?   Yeah, my Sonic Mini 4K has finally arrived and I can get in on the 3D printing action.  It took about a month to ship and then a week i

It has a very low angle.  Most of the  resin drains off of it but it could stand to be a few degrees steeper.   As promised I am returning with pics.  As a word of warning, my camera is old

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On 1/5/2021 at 6:23 AM, Glitterwolf said:

 

My guess is you can use it a few months after the due date, but maybe not a year.

Oh well, my resin lasts a few months at the most...

Chug! Chug! Chug! ::D:

On 1/1/2021 at 5:40 PM, Glitterwolf said:

 

Are you saying the printer sometimes doesn't get power?

Electricity down?

Because that WILL lead to failure, it will simply stop printing.

I guess I 'm misunderstanding...

We have a printer.

We have a computer.

We have ONE UPS.

 

Guess which one is hooked up to the UPS?

 

Unless I'm doing homework.

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I had my first total failure(s) over the weekend.  I'd seen these flex plates in use and decided to give one a try.  Unfortunately nothing stuck to it.  I'm getting 12 or so layers in and then everything ends up on the FEP.

 

So I cleaned it again, scuffed it with the included sandpaper, increased my bottom exposure by 3 seconds, and my test print stuck!  In fact it stuck so well that it did not flex off and I had to use the scraper to get it off.  This seems to me as if it defeats the whole point of using a flex plate.  Now it is clean again and ready to go for some printing at my original bottom exposure time.  Finger crossed it will stick during printing but pop off when flexed.

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And success!  Nothing fell off and after it was done, most of the prints popped off when the plate was flexed. I have now printed all of the Loot welcome pack heroes at default scale. I think at some point (maybe not in this thread) I had mentioned "Reaper scaling" the Loot minis.  I now have a selection of PC races to compare, but with my Reaper order that came in today the scale creep in their product line was pretty obvious.  The new Bones USA Lysette towers over the metal figures I had ordered. So, which Reaper scale to use...

 

Anyway, here's the adventuring party.  The new prints followed by the group shot. There are a couple of pieces that printed but were broken by me squeezing too hard.  Now that I've printed a few of these I can say that the pre-supports are overall pretty good.  I found a few small island and reinforced a couple of places but overall they are a time saver. On thing to watch out for however is the placement of supports too close to the mini.  Pretty much every figure had a support somewhere that bonded to the figure.  It's not a big deal if you are printing for tabletop, but if you were printing to paint a competition piece there would be some adjustments to make.

 

369952556_Print2a.thumb.JPG.a9cda243ea43a0140cfc431e0c35f9f2.JPG

1791209989_Print2b.thumb.JPG.8449c8374b49460c1270e2b4ae67db4a.JPG

 

Someday when I have time I'll give them a tabletop paint job to bring out the details. Like February at this rate.

 

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Back to printing.  I tweaked the lift speed a bit towards faster prints, so we'll see how things look when I get back from work.  In the process of doing so I may have answered my own question above about the time disparity.  I noticed that when I changed the settings the print time estimate that Chitubox gives me didn't change.  Given they are faster than reality it would appear it is calculating based off of the default settings.

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Plate 1 of 4 complete:

 

Shryka_01.thumb.jpg.4a8ccc7ef30a8152764f8c698686e41d.jpg

 

This was the "short" group where nothing was really much higher than a standard gaming figure.  The other 3, well, they're going to take longer.

 

And now I need to get back to painting or else SGHawkins will be hunting me down next week.

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And #2. My flex plate got me this time.  When it flexes the weakest link goes, which might not be the base.  In this case the blade of the sword was paper thin and little chunks popped off the edge.  I blame that more on the sculptor than the machine though. I mean, this is 1/10 scale and the tip of the sword is translucent.  There is no need for it to be that thin.

 

Shryka_02.thumb.jpg.d8e972af44042b642d34f6b62821a857.jpg

 

#3 is on now.

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On 1/11/2021 at 7:18 PM, Auberon said:

And success!  Nothing fell off and after it was done, most of the prints popped off when the plate was flexed. I have now printed all of the Loot welcome pack heroes at default scale. I think at some point (maybe not in this thread) I had mentioned "Reaper scaling" the Loot minis.  I now have a selection of PC races to compare, but with my Reaper order that came in today the scale creep in their product line was pretty obvious.  The new Bones USA Lysette towers over the metal figures I had ordered. So, which Reaper scale to use...

 

Anyway, here's the adventuring party.  The new prints followed by the group shot. There are a couple of pieces that printed but were broken by me squeezing too hard.  Now that I've printed a few of these I can say that the pre-supports are overall pretty good.  I found a few small island and reinforced a couple of places but overall they are a time saver. On thing to watch out for however is the placement of supports too close to the mini.  Pretty much every figure had a support somewhere that bonded to the figure.  It's not a big deal if you are printing for tabletop, but if you were printing to paint a competition piece there would be some adjustments to make.

 

369952556_Print2a.thumb.JPG.a9cda243ea43a0140cfc431e0c35f9f2.JPG

1791209989_Print2b.thumb.JPG.8449c8374b49460c1270e2b4ae67db4a.JPG

 

Someday when I have time I'll give them a tabletop paint job to bring out the details. Like February at this rate.

 

How much bigger do they seem than the Reapers. I am planning on printing the bare chested guy a couple times next weekend to add to the pirates for my sons Hero Kids adventure. 

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44 minutes ago, KruleBear said:

How much bigger do they seem than the Reapers. I am planning on printing the bare chested guy a couple times next weekend to add to the pirates for my sons Hero Kids adventure. 

 

The bare-chested guy is about 35mm to the eyes.  Depending on the figure you compare him to he is about half a head to a full head taller than the Reaper minis.  OTOH he is naturally proportioned rather than heroic scale so his head is about the same size. He's like a basketball player mixed in with the Reaper crowd.

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#3 is done.  This is it for the figure.  #4 is the base.  Now that I've printed an entire figure, a few thoughts on the pre-supports:

  • From a printing standpoint they are great.  Nothing failed and I don't see any missing bits or pancakes.
  • From a support removal standpoint the are a bit more problematic.  The person that did these likes the sphere contact shape.  In my limited experience, these are more likely to leave a hole if you pull off a support.  The main issue though is the support of the little decorative bits.  Frequently the support chosen is too big and really hard to get off without damage.  It would probably be worth the time to edit these.

Shryka_03.thumb.jpg.419de3581bacff967bb549746bd1b5be.jpg

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Don't pull off supports ( unless they're really really softened by hot water or something)

Use a hobby knife and/or the side cutter for that.

You will leave less marks.

 

And...awesome print!!!

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14 minutes ago, Glitterwolf said:

Don't pull off supports ( unless they're really really softened by hot water or something)

Use a hobby knife and/or the side cutter for that.

You will leave less marks.

 

And...awesome print!!!

 

I don't intentionally pull off the supports*, but it does happen sometimes while cutting.  I find the standard cone connection to be much more forgiving in this respect.

 

*I will rip them off if it is in an area that will never bee seen, such as where the pieces above attach.

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And the final print: the base. There was some glitch at the very beginning, which you can see at the bottom of this image, and then as far as I can tell it printed perfectly.  It was also very loud.  I could hear the FEP pop after every layer. February will be for painting this.  At the moment I am still working on the last base I printed.  14 hours of overtime is good for future hobby purchases, but was bad for painting time. Sadly I just started an 11 days in a row stretch which will also not be good for hobby time. ::(:

 

Shryka_04.thumb.jpg.d55c49cbb4335244c623ea0481b077d5.jpg

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