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Model car - Recommends Testor? Would Reaper work?


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Hey all,

 

I only have Reaper paints for all my mini painting but got my son a model car kit for Christmas. The paints in the guide are all Testor recommended enamels.  I've not painted with Testor paints since 8th grade so it's been a few...decades :D

 

Would Reaper paints work well for model painting? Or would they be too dull for stuff like car body/paint jobs, etc?

 

 

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Most Reaper paints have a matte finish, but you can fix that with a coat of gloss sealer.  I think you'll find that Reaper acrylics are easier to use, being water clean up.  It will come out of clothing, if you get to it immediately.  No fumes, no ventilation required, no paint thinner. 

 

 

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Pick up some Tamiya clears on eBay! :lol: They're standard for some sort of model car painting (RC's but whatever), and Red Clear is one of *the* paints to use for blood effects on your miniatures! You can pick up other colors, but I've only really needed Tamiya Clear (no color) whenever I needed some "modern day" gloss on something, such as a jet ski miniature. (What? You don't have a jet ski miniature? Well, Sally 4th will have one with a spy in an upcoming KS next year...!

 

http://www.wampforum.com/VB4/showthread.php?t=9031

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3 hours ago, Valien said:

Hey all,

 

I only have Reaper paints for all my mini painting but got my son a model car kit for Christmas. The paints in the guide are all Testor recommended enamels.  I've not painted with Testor paints since 8th grade so it's been a few...decades :D

 

Would Reaper paints work well for model painting? Or would they be too dull for stuff like car body/paint jobs, etc?

 

 

 

The main thing you wouldn't really be able to do is all the sanding that a lot of model car people do. If you weren't planning on doing lots of sanding anyway you'll probably be fine with acrylics.

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another thing is that it is more difficult to get a very smooth finish on broad flat surfaces with miniature acrylics such as reaper, unless you paint several (=a lot of, depending on what colour you want) thinned coats, or even paint with an airbrush. This is both because of the thicker consistency of the paints and the much faster drying time. It is easy to get streaks and patches with acrylics when painting over semi-dry paint (which can happen in seconds).
Enamels usually have far longer drying time (hours, not minutes), which also can result in a smoother surface as the paint has more time to level itself before setting.

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On 12/31/2020 at 9:04 PM, Valien said:

Hey all,

 

I only have Reaper paints for all my mini painting but got my son a model car kit for Christmas. The paints in the guide are all Testor recommended enamels.  I've not painted with Testor paints since 8th grade so it's been a few...decades :D

 

Would Reaper paints work well for model painting? Or would they be too dull for stuff like car body/paint jobs, etc?

 

 

 

Short answer is yes, but they will need a primer.  Stynylrez would work if you have that, Reaper Brown Liner can do in a pinch. (any suitable primer for plastics will do, I just don't know what you might have handy)  As mentioned above, they will need a gloss topcoat to look right.  Whether your spray this on or hand brush it on, remember to cover, mask, or otherwise protect any clear parts like windows.  

 

Long answer is that for really top-end work on cars, enamels are usually superior to acrylics because, again as mentioned above, they take much better to sanding and polishing without the tendency to peel that many acrylics exhibit.  But if it's just meant to be a half-decent bit of fun and not a show-quality job, Reaper will do the trick.  

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