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The Bebilith is a gigantic spider-demon-thing that first appeared, I think, in AD&D2e Planescape. The Pathfinder SRD definition of the creature can be found at https://www.d20pfsrd.com/bestiary/monster-listings/outsiders/bebilith/


Schlossbauer, on Thingiverse, has his own version of a Bebilith, which I have downloaded and have attempted a couple of times to print, both in resin and in PLA, with very limited success with the limbs of the thing. It's not a model that is well adapted to FDM printing. However, now that I'm beginning to get to grips with resin printing, I've given it another go, more successfully this time.

2021-03-03_SchlossbauerBebelith3dBuilder

Schlossbauer's model, base removed, in 3d Builder

 

2021-03-03_SchlossbauerBebelith_ResinPLA

Resin in  red (no scythe-claws yet) and a PLA+ body in black.

 

The model is too large for the build volume of my Mars Pro, and rather than scale it down, I decided to cut it up in Blender. I printed it in three batches: the body, the six legs, and the two scythe-claws.

 

This had the advantage of making supporting the elements quite a bit easier. However, assembly was made slightly — though only slightly — tricky because I had to match the right leg to the right socket. Fortunately I'd had the foresight to make each plug and socket a slightly different shape, so it was only a question of matching the shapes.

 

2021-03-03_SchlossbauerBebelith_Assembly

Just one leg left to place, and then the scythe-claws

 

One interesting thing about resin printing is that it turns out to be a bit less dimensionally precise than the prints I get from my Ender 3. I had to file the plugs a bit to get them to seat properly in their sockets; fortunately the resin is very soft, so it was easy enough to do.

 

I glued it together with ordinary superglue.

 

The softness of the resin will make basing this model a necessity. The attachment points of the legs and claws will inevitably break if given even slightly rough handling.

 

And here, a couple of hours later (after going out for some more superglue) it is. I've sprayed it with a coat of Vallejo IDF Grey surface primer so that I can see what's going on — the translucent resin is very tricky to the eye. The seams where the limbs have been joined are very apparent; they'll need to be filled.

 

2021-03-03_SchlossbauerBebelith.jpg

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Posted (edited)

2021-03-04-BAOR_10mm-002.jpg

Carl Gustav anti-tank teams, with integral printed bases. The figures were designed in Blender.

 

A while ago, before PSC had got around to releasing its 10mm NORTHAG stuff, and because metal 10mm infantry was surprisingly expensive, I thought I'd design and 3d print some for myself. At that time I only had my Ender 3 printer, and though the resulting prints were okay for game pieces, they weren't fantastic.

 

Now that I have my Mars Pro resin printer, I thought I'd print some more to see how they'd look. I'm pretty happy with they way they turned out, in the end.

 

2021-03-04-BAOR_10mm-001.jpg

Riflemen in red, fresh off the printer. Carl Gustav teams primed and washed.

 

I doubt that I'll proceed with this project though. Now that infantry are readily available from PSC and elsewhere, and the amount of infantry I'm liable to need for a game means that the cost isn't too exorbitant, there doesn't seem to be all that much point in DIY stuff. I'm pleased to know I could do it though, if I felt the urge.

 

2021-03-04-BAOR_10mm-003.jpg

For comparison, here's a 4-man fire team that I printed on my Ender 3.

Edited by MojoBob
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44 minutes ago, Glitterwolf said:

Is Blender easy to use?

 

That's a tricky question. I find it pretty easy to use now, but I'm very used to it, and I'm still finding things that can trip me up. I keep a notebook beside me in which I note down how to do things, so I don't have to keep it all in my leaky brains.

 

The way I learned to use Blender was by building something I wanted to make, and spending a lot of time on Youtube and Blender forums and what-not to find out how to do the things I needed to do to make that thing. That was 2016, and I recorded my progress on my blog. If I re-did that model now, I'd do it much more quickly, efficiently, and generally better, but I plugged away at it and it taught me a great deal. Blender has improved its usability a great deal since then, too.

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2 minutes ago, MojoBob said:

 

That's a tricky question. I find it pretty easy to use now, but I'm very used to it, and I'm still finding things that can trip me up. I keep a notebook beside me in which I note down how to do things, so I don't have to keep it all in my leaky brains.

 

The way I learned to use Blender was by building something I wanted to make, and spending a lot of time on Youtube and Blender forums and what-not to find out how to do the things I needed to do to make that thing. That was 2016, and I recorded my progress on my blog. If I re-did that model now, I'd do it much more quickly, efficiently, and generally better, but I plugged away at it and it taught me a great deal. Blender has improved its usability a great deal since then, too.

 

I would probably only use it to cut larger models in pieces for printing on a smaller bed

Is that easy?

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Just now, Glitterwolf said:

 

I would probably only use it to cut larger models in pieces for printing on a smaller bed

Is that easy?

 

Yes, fairly easy. Blender's Booleans have improved enormously over the last couple of years. You do need to make sure that your base model is properly manifold though, or else all sorts of problems arise.

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2 minutes ago, MojoBob said:

 

Yes, fairly easy. Blender's Booleans have improved enormously over the last couple of years. You do need to make sure that your base model is properly manifold though, or else all sorts of problems arise.

 

Manifold?

Not sure if I know what you mean in this context.

 

I would use minis made by Patreons to cut up.

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Just now, Glitterwolf said:

 

Manifold?

Not sure if I know what you mean in this context.

 

I would use minis made by Patreons to cut up.

 

It means not having any internal faces (i.e. faces inside the geometry) or holes in the mesh, or duplicate geometry lying on top of each other, among other things.

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This is yet another remix of the work of others.

 

2021-03-14_PzJgIV-L48_preview.jpg


The body of the JgPz IV comes, I think, from the ever prolific Mr. Bergman; I've just refined the gun and mantlet a bit, and cut off the old running gear.  The running gear I've used has been extracted from Zac Kuvalich's (TigerAce1945) remastered Panzer IV model. The model is 1:100 scale, for 15mm wargaming.

 

At some stage I'll probably also do a JgPz IV/70, since it would require minimal extra work. The front road wheels would need to be swapped for steel wheels, and the gun barrel would need to be replaced with the much longer (and muzzle brake-less) L70 gun. Though considering the relative fragility of the resin, I might just add a socket to the mantlet, into which I can glue a length of brass rod or tube.

 

2021-03-14_PzJgIV-L48_print.jpg

 

The test print went very well. I'll call that a success, I think.


I've very rarely printed vehicles with separate running gear in FDM; I've seldom found it to be worth the extra trouble. However, it's a lot more straightforward when printing in resin, and the additional track link detail is nice to have. It will simplify painting the upper run of tracks as well, to be able to paint the tracks separate from the hull. One thing though — the running gear components both warped slightly longitudinally. I don't know if they did it in printing, or if it happened when they went into the hot water for support removal. I managed to squish them into place when gluing them to the hull, but the rear of each is slightly splayed outwards. Not enough to be a huge worry, but it's there.

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The hull of the JgPz IV/70 is done and printed.

 

2021-03-16_PzJgIV-L70_print.jpg

 

As I suggested earlier, rather than printing a fragile resin gun barrel, I just put a socket in the mantlet and used a 2mm brass rod. It's a tad too thick for a 75mmL70 in scale, but not too egregiously so, and it will be much, much more hard-wearing this way.

 

Modifications to the hull for the L70 version consisted of adding a gun barrel lock on the glacis, doing away with the left front MG port cover, adding another spare wheel, and filling up the rack on the rear of the engine bay with spare track links. The redesigned running gear, with new steel wheels on the first bogies, is on the printer as I type this. It should be ready in about an hour, all going well.

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10 hours ago, Gadgetman! said:

What would be the correct OD for the L70?     

 

Would 0.7 or 0.8mm ID and 1.3mm OD steel tube be suitable, or does it need a slightly larger OD?

 

 1.3mm OD would be pretty close, though fractionally too small at the base of the barrel and fractionally too large at the muzzle :)

My estimates are fairly crude, since I'm rescaling from 1/72 drawings, but I think the barrel should be about 1.4 - 1.5mm at the mantlet.

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In one of our most recent D&D sessions, we were up to nautical shenanigans and could have used some little ship models for the sheneniganning. True to form, I decided after the fact, when it was too late, to make some.

 

2021-03-23_cog_2.jpg

 

It's a C13th-14th cog, designed in Blender and printed on my Mars Pro. The model is about 75mm from end to end, so it would be about 1/200 - 1/300 scale — in 1/300 it would be on the larger side for a cog, at 1/200 it would be a medium-small one.

 

Because I wanted a gaming token rather than a fine-scale model, I didn't bother with a lot of detail. Nor are there any crew figures. It will serve well enough as it is to show us where we are in relation to the pirates who want to perform unspeakable acts on us.

I got my JagdPanzer IV models painted up and ready for the wargaming table:

 

2021-03-14_PzJgIV-L48_finished.jpg

 

2021-03-17-JgPzIV70.jpg

 

I'm happier with the L48 than the L70, but both will do the job.

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As happens quite a lot with me, my 3d printing is outstripping my painting.

This is the clutter on my modeling desk at the moment. Apart from the aircraft, everything is 15mm, and everything is 3d printed with the exception of some metal medieval crossbowmen, lurking down the back where they have been literally for years... I really should get them finished.

 

2021-04-01_Miscellany.jpg

 

So, what do we have here?

 

2021-04-01_MiscellanyLegend.jpg

 

  1. PaK38 50mm anti-tank gun
  2. leFH18-3 auf GW B2 — A German "beutepanzer" conversion of a French Char B2(bis) into a 150mm self-propelled gun
  3. Kettenkrad with Goliath on trailer
  4. Springer demolitions vehicle
  5. Tetrarch light tank
  6. Goliath
  7. Vickers-Crossley armoured car
  8. Seated WWII British infantry
  9. Albatros DVa (1/200)
  10. Sopwith triplane (1/200)
  11. Fokker Dr1 (1/200)
  12. Very chunky early WWII German infantryman (up-scaled from 6mm)
  13. Westland Whirlwind (1/144, failed print)
  14. SdKfz 251 C ambulance (semi-failed print)
  15. Rolls-Royce armoured car (old FDM print)

 

Since I took that photo, I've finished painting the Tetrarch:

 

2021-04-02-tetrarch.jpg

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Hi all.  Apparently I have been gifted with a resin printer.  I have not had a chance to take it out if the box but I think it's a small Mars unit and some miscellaneous resin.  Apparently my friends friends wife told his friend 'it stinks,, get rid of it and he already had one he wasn't using.  So... starting recommended primers without going through a million hours of video?  I prefer reading instructions to video...

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