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I've started getting some splitting and warping of parts post-curing. The last one was a turret-stub that partially separated; this time it split along the base of the gun mantlet and the gun and mantlet warped vertically, pulling it away from the body of the turret.

 

On both pieces, I pulled the errant parts right off and glued them back in place.

 

My working hypothesis at the moment is that it's due to imperfectly cured resin still inside the hollow component, which is now sealed because I glued a magnet over its drain hole. I thought I'd cured its innards with my little LED-on-a-battery, but maybe not. I gave it a couple of minutes, which according to the information I had from the internet should have been enough, but maybe more would be better — I don't know how much UV I'm getting out of a single solitary LED.

 

I'm hollowing models at the moment with 1mm walls. Would it be a good idea to increase the wall thickness?

 

Maybe I should leave the turrets for a few days to drain any stray resin before I block up their drain-holes.

 

 

2021-05-11_BT42-turret-split.jpg

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Well, now I know what happens when resin in the vat gets too low.

 

It could have been a lot worse; this time I just lost a bit of the front-right trackguard. I guess there was still enough of a puddle elsewhere on the FEP to complete the other side. 

 

The model is still usable as a wargaming piece. I'll just call it battle damage. :)

 

 

2021-05-22_ResinRunOut.jpg

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2021-05-23-BT7-opaque.jpg

 

1:100 (15mm) WWII Soviet BT-7 fast tank.

 

This is printed in a Frankenstein mixture of resins: the very last drops of transparent red left in the vat, the last dregs of some opaque tan resin, and some transparent green to take the vat level up to a safe depth. They're all the same type of water-washable resin though, and all from eSun, so they're perfectly intermixable.

 

The only issue is that the inert fillers in the opaque resin mean that you have to be very diligent about washing the print, and it's a good idea to blow off any water with compressed air before curing — I didn't do that this time, which is why I got that white crufty buildup in some of the seams. The transparent resins are much more forgiving in this respect, and in using them I've got a bit lazy.

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Compare with this one, in exactly the same resin, that I blow-dried with my airbrush before curing.

You could use canned compressed air  I guess, if you don't have access to an airbrush; I have no idea what those cost as I've never used it for anything.

 

2021-05-24-BT7_washedproperly.jpg

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2021-06-16_T27-horde_priming.jpg

 

Quite some time ago, I designed a 1:100 scale model of the Soviet T27 tankette (based on the Carden-Loyd Mk.VI) and uploaded it to Shapeways. Unfortunately, Shapeways 3d printing is still pretty expensive, so though I did get a sample printed, I never went ahead with the numbers that would be required for these little cockroaches.

 

Of course, now that I have a resin printer of my own, all that has changed. I've printed 21 of them so far, which is enough for between four and seven platoons, depending on how much I want to pay for them in Battlegroup: Barbarossa (it's 25 points for a three-tankette platoon, and an extra 10 points for up to two more).

 

The thing is, they're pretty pointless on a Barbarossa-era battlefield. They're unreliable, their narrow tracks bog easily, the armour is minimal, and they're armed with just a single 7.62mm machine-gun. They'd been declared obsolete by about 1935, and though there were still some around by 1941 they were relegated to towing light anti-tank guns like the 37mm and 45mm.

 

They were more common in the Winter War of '39-40, but even then they weren't front-line vehicles, and they didn't deal at all well with the snow.

 

Still, I've got them now.

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Posted (edited)

I've been tinkering away at designing a 1:100 scale digital model of Britain's standard heavy gun of WWII, the 7.2" howitzer. It was derived from the WWI vintage 8" howitzer, with a new barrel to cater to heavier charges and new, better ammunition. It used huge chocks in an attempt to keep the gun roughly in place after firing; even so, it was not unknown for the most powerful charges to send the gun right up and over its chocks, presumably to the loud swearing (and peril) of the crew.

 

2021-06-30_7-2inchHowitzer_02.jpg

 

This model shows it on its original carriage. It was later put on the four-wheel split-trail carriage of the US 155mm "Long Tom", which was better able to handle the massive recoil generated by the gun's most powerful charges.

 

Unfortunately I don't have any 15mm British WWII gun crew miniatures for heavy guns; the figures shown below are a couple of old Battlefront Mediterranean British infantry. I guess I'll probably just have to design some of my own.

 

2021-07-01-7-2inchHowitzer.jpg

 

some time later....

 

2021-07-06-7-2inchHowitzer.jpg

 

I finally got around to printing and painting the huge chocks that were used to keep these guys from bounding away all over the landscape, and mounted everything on an off-cut of an old credit card.

Edited by MojoBob
Additions to original model
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