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By Erramir Orlans
Hello people! i would like to share with you an upcoming Kickstarter campaign that will start on April 20 and last until May 10.
This is the preview page https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/joygamesinteractive/the-holy-roman-empire?ref=d1ay07&token=6758305e
As the title says, it will offer Rank & file 3d printable models to make an Imperial Army (15-16th century Germany/Holy Roman Empire), including chracters, commanders, and special troops/artillery
The main pledge of $30 usd, gives 63 models (core units). As add-ons, at 75% off (compared to webstore prices), there will be sets of models (from previous releases in the patreon) and scenery.
The base pledge:
There will be some freebies stretch goals, and other payed, Like ogres mercenaries(x3), Giant, volley gun, heavy arquebusier/sharpshooter, and moarrr!
Here was my entry for the 16th quarterly Reaper Facebook Contest. I was honored to receive an honorable mention. There were dozens of fantastic entries.
I wanted to try a white dragon coloration. I have Deathsleet in my queue, so this is a test run. His scales are Dragon White. The ventral surfaces are more of a bone color with Creamy Ivory and Linen White, with Sepia Wash.
His dagger is a green NMM. His eyes are gem-like, not lizard pupils. The skirt completes the “triangle of interest” green color. I rebased him on a Micro Arts 30mm Sewer base.
I had a lot of fun with this one. I wanted to keep him as a rogue, so I chose a dagger and loot bag from his hand choices. I also painted his armor as leather with some gold NMM.
I realize it's not the weekend, but the week was quite busy and I'm happy to have got any of this done at all.
This little wizard's focus for me was going to be brighter colors and trying to do skin and hair better. I think it came out pretty well.
* The base color of red tone and highlighting upward to flesh tone seems to be a good mix.
* Keeping to adjacent colors on the color wheel made for a pleasing, eye-catching combo. I have to say using the reds, oranges, and browns was pretty fun.
* I did as much highlighting and avoiding washes as I could. This has been my practice over the last number of models I've done. I don't get how the videos show people just splashing it on for amazing results. I don't get it, can't seem to do it the same, so I resort to taking more time on starting dark and going light. Much like Dr. Faust's painting videos. I've learned much from watching him.
* Mixing paints is getting better. I used like colors to lighten and highlight and I'm getting a better balance and understanding of how they may look really different wet, but getting to know how they dry and differs greatly.
* The eyes worked better going in order of black first, white second, black third. I was doing a white, black, white and it made the eyes look weird. @Inarah pushed me to try something different and it's been working better.
* The brown hair with little highlights came out good and I'm trying to be very light in my touch to get subtle look versus stark. Win!
* The staff is okay. I tried to give it like some kind of weathered look or cool effect at the end, but it just didn't sing like I had hoped.
* On the back of his cape, there's a part that I tried shading inf that just didn't look believable to the eye. I tried to hit it a few times to catch the light and how to lighten the edgest, but it was lost on me. Fail.
*The skin on his hand held out has a funny look to it up close. I tried to bring out some of pads of his fingers and palm, but it doesn't look as good as I had hoped.
Overall it's another win, and I'm happy with the results.
By Rob Dean
I received a package a few days ago of Russian 54mm semi-flat figures. While I broke down and ordered more before I tried painting any of them, I at least primed them, so I knew it could be done. They looked like they would be plausible to paint (though to a “nice toy” standard rather than a “museum zinnfiguren” standard), so I sat done this morning and cranked out this fellow in about 90 minutes.
How flat are they?
Being thin and plastic, they are very light, so I am thinking that I am going to have to order a bunch of 20mm x 40mm steel bases. Then it’s a question of what sort of game are these going to turn out to support...
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