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Another Sticky Mini Question and Spray Varnishes


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It's well known that bones can get sticky when using a rattle can primer.  However, do I have to be concerned about  the final topcoat?  To my thinking there should be a couple of layers of paint between the bones material and the aerosol sealer so I'm assuming it won't be a problem.  I'm wondering what your experiences are?

 

Thanks. 

Edited by Rignes
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Vallejo, Army painter spray both left a kind of sticky tacky feel.  It's not immediate, but comes on after about a day.  However, the tamiya fine grey does not.  Nor did the corax white from gw. Or grey from The Armory.  If you paint then quickly, you hardly notice. After i varnished them i never felt anything. 

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Never had a problem with spray varnish making Bones tacky. As long as all the plastic has been covered up by some layers of paint, it shouldn't matter. I usually do two coats of spray gloss and a coat of matte, none have turned tacky. Of the ones I've painted and given away, no one has ever reported any issues when I asked them about it.

 

Worth stating that I primer with either Vallejo or Stynylrez, brushed on, so there is that base protective layer. Then all the paint. A couple times, in lieu of gloss varnish, I used the Pledge/Future/whatever they call it now acrylic floor wax, and then spray matte varnish. All good.

Edited by ManvsMini
typos, blah
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That's what I was thinking.  But was doubting myself because I keep hearing things.  To my mind, as long as there is a primer and a couple of coats of paint on then you should be OK to seal it with whatever you want since the sealant should never actually touch the plastic.  And indeed, that's what my experience has been so far.

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9 minutes ago, ManvsMini said:

A couple times, in lieu of gloss varnish, I used the Pledge/Future/whatever they call it now acrylic floor wax, and then spray matte varnish. All good.

I've heard of people using acrylic floor polish/gloss/finish, and when other things were not readily available, I can understand why.  I've never tried it, but I have varnishes designed for paint that didn't cost very much, so there's been no need.  Any special reason you used it?

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It probably goes without saying, but I'll say it anyways: just makes sure the paint has set for at least a day before you do spray varnish it. I've never sprayed them the same day as I finished painting, but I know acrylic paint takes several days even after being dry to fully cure.

 

 

1 minute ago, Serenity said:

I've heard of people using acrylic floor polish/gloss/finish, and when other things were not readily available, I can understand why.  I've never tried it, but I have varnishes designed for paint that didn't cost very much, so there's been no need.  Any special reason you used it?

 

Yes, actually. It was the middle of winter, and I couldn't spray them. I wanted to get something on just so I could protect them until it warmed up. I had some gloss varnish, but I don't really like brushing my varnishes for the final coat; I always feel like it won't get smooth. The floor polish was thinner than the gloss varnish, so I wasn't too concerned about smoothness. I did do multiple coats though.

Edited by ManvsMini
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I've always used a spray acrylic sealer on my figures without problems like stickiness.  I don't use varnish and I don't refer to acrylic sealers as "varnish" because the two are completely different products. Newbies don't need confusing terms when starting the hobby.

 

You're right in that if the surface is fully painted the spray sealer won't react with the Bones plastic. 

 

We used to use Future floor polish back in the day as a paint thinner to make washes. It acted as a surfactant and kept it from making brown rings as it dried.  A side effect was that it was really glossy.  Since it was floor polish (not a dessert topping) that made perfect sense for its original application.  It was basically mop-on acrylic sealer, and you could use it as a top coat in a pinch.  Nail polish, too. 

 

 

 

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12 hours ago, Serenity said:

I've heard of people using acrylic floor polish/gloss/finish, and when other things were not readily available, I can understand why.  I've never tried it, but I have varnishes designed for paint that didn't cost very much, so there's been no need.  Any special reason you used it?

Pledge/Future is the most commonly used gloss sealer for those who do model railroad and scale model work.  Apparently you can use it straight in an airbrush without mixing, and it does a good job. 

 

I have no experience with it, because I use either Vallejo Mecha varnish or Mission Models vanishes through my airbrush. 

 

I suspect the main reason its used is because its incredibly cheap on the wallet, and you get a decent amount, which can be handy where you're doing decals and/or weathering due to the multiple coats. 

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29 minutes ago, Auberon said:

Yes, you do need to be concerned about the final topcoat.  I can say from personal experience that the wrong spray will turn a Bones I mini tacky even through multiple layers of paint. 

 

Maybe, but it's worth keeping in mind that the tacky miniatures due to spray varnish problem existed before bones and is still a thing even with metal miniatures. I think I even have a couple Reaper metal minis that are still a bit sticky after many years of me never getting around to fixing them.

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32 minutes ago, Auberon said:

Yes, you do need to be concerned about the final topcoat.  I can say from personal experience that the wrong spray will turn a Bones I mini tacky even through multiple layers of paint. 

UA-hazel-elaborate.jpg.4ec74fee759518f71046e729f942bf98.jpg

 

Please share your experience, as the majority of others in this thread have had the opposite of yours. Can't just state "the wrong spray" and not provide details (what spray did you use, primed vs unprimed, if unprimed did you use the brown liner or not, time between completing painting and spraying, etc).

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1 hour ago, ManvsMini said:

UA-hazel-elaborate.jpg.4ec74fee759518f71046e729f942bf98.jpg

 

Please share your experience, as the majority of others in this thread have had the opposite of yours. Can't just state "the wrong spray" and not provide details

 

But I just did...

 

1 hour ago, ManvsMini said:

 (what spray did you use

 

Lost to the sands of time. It was what I was using on metal at the time.  Worked fine for that.

 

1 hour ago, ManvsMini said:

 primed vs unprimed, if unprimed did you use the brown liner or not

 

Back when I painted Bones they were never primed.  Wash, dry, paint directly on mini. 

 

1 hour ago, ManvsMini said:

time between completing painting and spraying, etc).

 

Highly variable.  I saved 'em up and sprayed in batches. 

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In my experience in working with Bones, I have found that Tamiya Lt Grey Fine Surface Primer spray and Testor's Dull Coat work great on Bones minis/material. No issues with tacky/stickiness.

Edited by golldan
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@golldanyup. Same for me on both of those you used, too.  I added above that The Armory also had one that worked with no tacky residue.   

 

I am one who's tried to paint without applying a primer and hated it on bones.  I know my lack of experience, inconsistency in paint dilution, brush work, or any other variables that give me a poor result compared to those who don't prime Bones.  I know that when i am painting on a primed one it works much, much better and i can tell the second i hit a spot that didn't get primed because the paint behaves so different.  I compare it to ice skating and hitting that one dry patch that throws your momentum off.  

 

For varnish, I've done brush on liquitex, spray on dullcote and semi-gloss from testors, and even tried the vallejo brush on matte and semi.  Easily the best result with no tacky was Testors.  Specifically Testors semi or dullcote over the mentioned non-tacky primers.

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I think the solvents are more problematic than the sealant itself.  I had stickiness issues when I used a general purpose clear matte paint some years ago..

  I know little about solvents, but xylene which is used in many spray paints will soften or dissolve PVC (and some other plastics) so I would not use anything with xylene on bones.  I also avoid paints using acetone although I don’t think it is as bad for plastic as xylene.

  I have had no problems using Army Painter Matte Varnish or any of the spray acrylic sprays intended for art (Windsor & Newton, Krylon, Liquitex, etc.). My guess is they use less aggressive solvents since they are for sealing aryclic and watercolor paintings.

Edited by ferret
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