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Painting STuG IIIGs with acrylics, enamels and Oils


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I have more armor on the workbench. At the end I will have used acrylics, enamel paints, oil paints and pigments.

After I finished building all four vehicles, including some modifications to represent a specific unit, I primed them with gray Stynylrez primer with an airbrush.

After that had cured I followed up with the primary color, dunkelgelb, using Ammo by Mig acrylic, again with the airbrush using, or trying to use, some color modulation.


I followed that with the camo pattern, no masking was used because I wanted a soft or feathered edge.


I sealed the pattern with a satin varnish. Decals are best applied on a glassy surface but a satin or semi-gloss gives the surface a bit more “tooth”.


After the decals were applied I sealed the with another coat of satin finish.

Now its time for the fun part, weathering! I start with oils to fade the colors which starts to introduce some more tones to the vehicles. It doesn’t take much to make it fade and this is just one of several techniques to do this. At the same time I darkened some the colors in some areas too.




You need to let the fading dry for at least 24 hours before you move on. Fading was followed by a pin wash which can definitely be tedious to apply. Try and keep it neat so there is less to clean up.




I used odor less enamel thinner to clean things up. Just use a damp brush not a wet brush for this. It’s easy to go overboard and effect the paint work.


Now I just need to do this on three more and I can move on to the next step.

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1 hour ago, buglips*the*goblin said:

Good looking StuGs!  What company are these?  

These are painted for Sturmgeschtze Brigade 341. The models are all built from the Rubicon Models kit. You can build all the major “G” variants including the STuH.

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After the pin wash, at least for me, comes the chipping. The pin wash was done with an enamel wash and the chipping is done with acrylics. In this case a light dunkelgelb and chips both from Ammo by Mig. I only used a piece of foam which is a good way to do it you just have to be cognizant of patterns and remember to rotate the foam a bit as you move around the vehicle. The process was repeated on the skirts where I also included some long scratches that run horizontally almost the full length of the vehicle. I also did some chipping on the wheels. On the Rubicon models the tracks and wheels are a single unit, for each side, which makes the painting process much easier.


I, obviously, still need some practice with this technique. In some places it looks great, in others it looks okay. I think I might skip the light colored chips on the next bunch of vehicles. Nothing came out so badly that I felt the need to go back and try and make some corrections. A lot of this work is going to be either covered by the stowage that will go on the back decks or by the weathering process itself so in the end I think these will look pretty sharp.












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