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By Disciple of Sakura
Just a general question I'm unable to find by searching in the forums - Does Item 03253: JUNGLE GIRL WITH SABRE TOOTH TIGER come as two separate figures (the cavegirl and the sabretooth tiger as individual figures in the blister)? I'd like to be able to use them as separate pieces on the battlefield, but I can't tell if they're actually cast as one piece. It seems likely they're separate figures sold together, but I'd just like to get confirmation.
Once upon a time at PAX, when Bones were still new I asked about having miniatures come in separate pieces as that would make them easier to paint, but the answer I got was they wanted the consumer to be able to take it straight out of the package and onto the playmat. Which, fair enough, that made sense, and it's not like it was that hard to get around. I've been sitting on a pile of KS miniatures from the first two Kickstarters (as well as impulse buying a few other Bones along the way), but having taken a look at them it seemed like they weren't gonna be an issue to paint years later when I finally got around to that.
That is until today (er, yesterday now...). Last night I went to the FLGS (one of many in my area) 'cause they were having an everything sale, and I impulse bought
Seltyiel after making sure I didn't already get him in a Kickstarter. I did not, and I couldn't resist buying an entirely new miniature at $1.25, so I got him. Then when I finally opened him I noticed his arm was attached in a way that made it so his sword was basically pushing up against his leg, and I'd have to bend his arm everytime I needed to paint his leg or sword. I felt a little annoyed (though slightly vindicated), and thought I needed to fix this before I even wash him.
I thought maybe I could chop off his arm and glue it back on later, but I also thought in the 3-4 years that Bones have been out someone else would have had this issue. Unfortunately I'm not even sure how to search this one, so I made my own thread instead. What I did find is someone saying that boiling the miniature would undo the glue, but I also read in one of the sticky threads that the glue is basically superglue, and I'm a little skeptical that the bond would become undone just 'cause I put it in boiling water. SO I guess I'm asking if there's a way to separate glued pieces for the sake of making painting easier. Or am I gonna have to chop off poor Seltyiel's arm off and hope I can get it back on in a good position?
There has been a bit of Interest recently in Air brushes, so I thought that I would start a thread on what they are about, what you need to get started, and some suggestions on what I consider a 'Good quality" airbrush.
Disclaimer- I am NOT an expert airbrush painter, and I certainly don't know everything My posts will contain MY opinions.
So what does one need to get started using an airbrush?
There are 4 basic components:
1. The airbrush itself.
2. A source of air.
3. A Regulator, to adjust the air pressure.
4. Hoses to connect these things together.
1. The Airbrush.
There are many different brands and styles of airbrushes on the market, but they all fall into a couple of Categories.
They are Action and Feed
Feed is how the paint go from the storage container to the item being painted. 3 Main Types:
A. Top Feed- The paint container, commonly called the 'cup' sits on top of the air brush. As in this example.
B. Side Feed- The cup is off to one side or the other, instead of being on top. Another example.
C. Bottom Feed- The paint comes up from a bottle underneath the airbrush.
Action is how the paint and air mix to form the spray. There are 2 main types of Action, Single and Dual.
A. Single Action- There is little or no control of how much paint is coming out while spraying, except, by controlling the amount of air.
In other words, the Single Action trigger only allows you to control the volume of air being released to push the paint.
If you look at the above airbrush, and compare it to the 3 above, you will notice 2 separate 'Nozzles' One pointing up, one pointing sideways. The nozzle pointing up is the 'paint feed' line, siphoning the paint from the jar. The Horizontal nozzle is the 'air feed'. The airbrush works by the venturi effect, in that the air from the air nozzle passing over the paint nozzle lowers the local air pressure so that the paint is drawn up the tube and sprayed. The Paint-Air mix occurs Outside the airbrush.
(My opinion here- These are very basic airbrushes, good only for base coats and doing terrain. Detail work is impossible)
B. Dual Action- The airbrush trigger allows control of both the volume of air released, as well as the volume of paint released.
All 3 of the airbrushes show in the Feed section are Dual Action.
The trigger is the 'T' shaped object on the top of the brush over where the air hose connects.
Pushing 'Down" on the trigger controls the volume of air released, Pulling 'Back' on the trigger controls the volume of paint released.
This allows the very fine detail work some of these things can produce.
(My opinion here- If you are reading this forum, you are painting things where you need to be able to do a degree of detail work. You NEED a dual action brush)
2. The source of Air
The 2 main sources of air used in our hobby are Compressors, and 'Canned Air'.
A. Canned Air- Basically a can of spray paint with no paint and the ability to be connected to an airbrush.
The problem with this is that it runs out, usually at the most inconvenient time. It can be inconsistent. A it gets used, the can gets cold, pressure drops, and paint flow suffers.
(My opinion- Don't bother! If you are going to use an air brush in our hobby, you need a compressor!)
B. Compressors- There are many kinds of air compressors out there, fro tiny little ones that will fit in the palm of your hand, to huge ones like you would see in a Garage that fixes lots of cars!
There are really 2 types of air compressors used in our hobby, 'Tanked' and 'Tank-less'.
What this means is that a compressor with a 'tank' has a storage area for compressed air. The compressor runs to fill the tank to a certain PSI (Pounds per Square Inch), then shuts off until the pressure drops to a certain level, it then runs until the required pressure is met.
A 'Tank-less' compressor runs constantly to provide air.
(Disclaimer- I have no experience with this type of compressor)
3. A Regulator- The means of adjusting the pressure of air going to and through the airbrush. Different paints require different psi to push them through the airbrush, and these are the means to control that. There will be a gauge of some type, marked in PSI, and a knob to raise or lower the amount going through.
(Note, All compressors will have a regulator to adjust the outgoing air pressure, I just feel that this is not the best way to control the air to my airbrush, so I have a second regulator that I use to adjust the PSI)
There are many different types of regulators available...
4. Hoses- You need to connect the airbrush to the regulator and the regulator to the compressor. They come in different sizes, so be sure that the hose you get fits not only the airbrush, but also the air source! There are many different adapters available as well.
Here ends my discussion of the "what you need" to airbrush.
There are many facets to still discuss about airbrushes and compressors...
Please feel free to add, contradict, and generally comment on what YOU feel is needed! We are all after information, and what works for me might not work for you! Or someone else...
Given that the Bones express will be reaching my door step on the sooner side now, I've been thinking about the many LARGE models that I will be getting and how to handle them. And it seems like perhaps stepping into using an air brush for them could make good sense. But this leads me to a few questions for people who are doing this before I would invest in something like this. I'm not looking for any recommendations on equipment, there are MANY good videos and posts out there about that.
First off is simply, how well does the reaper paint (MSP and MSP HD) work in a air brush? Do you need to thin out the paint from the bottle to use it? If so, what sort of ratios?
And secondly, I've been able to find videos on "general" usage of the air brush and usage on non-fantasy minis (tanks, etc). Does anyone have any advice or pointers to anything that would show someone using a air brush on a large figure like a dragon? I'd like to use the air brush for more than just the base coating given the size of the figure (highlighting, etc). So any pointers on how to approach this would be great. And I do realize that brush work will still be needed.
Thanks in advance!
A while back Joe Kutz posted a reply to a thread about holding the miniature while painting that included a link to a cool tool.
I have "add to my Amazon wishlist" for Firefox ready for any cool things I find on here or elsewhere. This was a no brainer. I usually store things in there for review later. Upon review I decided I liked it even better for the job.
Well, last week was my birthday and lo the Universal Parts Holder was delivered unto me.
This thing is super cool. The pins can hold anything. I seriously played with it the entire night while playing Talisman. I locked in Talisman figures, dice, cards, etc. The next day I tried it out on my shale based minis. The irregular shapes were locked in nice and tight.
The grip is comfortable and sticks out from under my fist just enough to set it firmly on a desk/tabletop if I need an extra steady moment. You can unscrew the handle and put the jig assembly into a vise for cutting, air brushing, etc. I suggest taping off the other holes to prevent filling them.
It's worth the $20 Amazon calls for. The original site that Joe posted about is Widget Supply and they have a slightly different tool for a bit cheaper ($13).
I also got a tube of Kneadatite's Green Stuff. Woot!
I'll post a few pics with various sized miniatures held in it with various styles of bases later.
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