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rowdymon

Anyone used Hirst molds?

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Laugh...

 

I think I'll go the route my uncle did.

 

He found a woman he loves, and has been with her for 20+ years, on and off.

 

Originally he didn't want to marry her because of her daughter. He loved her, but refused to support her. And told her that. I can remember being at family weddings and she would say something to him. (We're a hard family to love sometimes), and he'ld just kind of avoid the subject.

 

Well her daughter got married, and moved off to another state. Apperantly my uncle had purchased a ring long ago with the intention of marrying her someday. He walked out to her one morning and handed her the box...said 'Lets get married'.

 

She looked at him and said, ask me the right way...I want a proper proposal.

 

He looked at her, said, ok, give me the ring back.

 

She did.

 

He walked into the house, put the ring back in the safe and told her she knew where the ring was when she wanted to get married.

 

LOL

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You can skip the dark wash stage by adding a colorant to the mix before pouring. Woodland Scenics makes a few of them.

I did that with Denstone White but it never got as dark as the Excaliber Dark Gray which is formulated specifically for modelmakers. The convenience makes the extra price worthwhile for me.

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Another accolade for Hirst Arts. I have several molds and have found them to be top quality. In addition, Bruce is top-notch when it comes to customer service.

 

I also use dark gray Excalibur and Wood Glue.

 

some of my pieces (of which there are actually very few) areHere. They're not quite as shiny in real life.

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Excalibur is available from Patterson Dental for dirt cheap. Got my 50 lb box for $35 including shipping.

Does Patterson carry the "dark gray" Excaliber? I thought the dark color was specifically made for modelers and carried only by Clint.

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Yea boys, the basement is all mine. That is unti lI start to finsih it or make it look nice, then, it will not be mine anymore. Actually, my wife would let me save up and buy a nice looking studio work desk and put it on the main floor, but I would have to stay organized. The work desk I like is $1500 and I think when it came to writing that check my wife would say, hey $1500, woulnd't a new couch, art, trim etc, look good in X room. Then I would say hey $1500, I could buy a nice surround sound system with that

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Know, dark grey is a custom color.

 

Patterson carries the light grey. I wish they had the tan though...

 

Frankly, unless the building is made from concrete, dark grey is not that important. I make my buildings look like limestone.

 

I base coat with polyacrylic water based dark brown polyureathane. It hardens the surface even more when dry. Then I drybrush up to a pale tan with a mix of colors.

 

The light grey is perfect as is for concrete bunkers when using the Station Builder molder. I just add burn marks, water streaks and dirt using paint.

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Hehe.. and here this topic presents itself JUST as I was cleaning up a bit of HirstArts-type-mess from my kitchen table. :)

 

Actually I like the product..LOVE the product. The website has all those wonderful downloadable instructions with colour-images that help you assemble your projects. If you can read the instructions on a Legoland playset you can build with HirstArts. Best of all, the plaster (UNLIKE resin) cleans away easily.

 

Here's a sample of a ruined tower built using HirstArts.

 

22aug04_3.jpg

 

This project involved only one mould, cast 16 times. The hill is of blue insulating styrofoam shaped with a hot-wire cutter.

 

Steve lets me do the plaster-casting now, and though it would APPEAR time-consuming, the larger amount of the time is spent waiting on the 30-minute set-time for the plaster, so if you "multi-task", then you're really not tied up much at all with the casting process UNLIKE with resin.

 

(Yep.. I hates me some resin..STILL trying to get that stuff off my kitchen counter)

 

There isn't any "cleanup" of the cast pieces providing you follow his instructions and level the wet plaster off while it's still in the mould. They pop out surprisingly easy UNLIKE resin, and if you let them sit overnight in a food-dehydrater (ask your wives and g/f's before you swipe their appliances), you end up with building blocks that feel like baked pottery.

 

The ruined tower takes a bit more skill to build than the lovely modular dungeon. Steve (with a wee bit of help from me) glued together the basic dungeon set in the course of about two hours.

 

BTW latex paint works very nicely on plaster.

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I am thinking of buying 3 molds. Which molds are the most versatile?

If you get something like the #60 Prison Tower Mold and #100 basic blocks they will build a lot of stuff with that basic block style. For a little more versatility add the #50 Wizard's Tower mold instead of the basic blocks mold. It has the same basic blocks plus some cool extras like arrow slits. For a third mold the #70 Fieldstone wall mold gives you a different style of block with a lot of extras like the skull and torch sconce. I have the #50, #60 and #70 and six other molds but I use these the most. I wouldn't recommend round or octagonal molds to start with but if you decide on one of those make sure it has the blocks to seamlessly splice the curved sections into walls.

Hirst Arts molds are fun to work with and habit forming.

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I've got all the Gothic Dungeon molds, 2 floor tile molds, and a Basic Block mold. The Gothic Dungeon molds come with a lot of arches, and other goodies. With these, I've been building ruined stonework buildings. In terms of fiddly detail bits, and different arch types, the dungeon molds are great.

 

I may get some of the other building molds for more pieces later. But for now, I can make a lot of stuff besides dungeons with those molds.

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Bruce sells everything himself. Hirstartsis the place to go. 5 molds gets you a 10% discount. 10 gets you the discount and free shipping. "Be nice to yourself" :poke:

 

I have #70,100,71,90,65,300,250,260,240,230,220. I plan to get a few more for Christmas......

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