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Every aspect of this project was decided by rolling on random tables, resulting in:
This mini (Fairy Huntress by Dark Sword Minis) The spider webs (because I had to somehow turn her into the victim of the scene) A very limited palette (Deep Red, Palomino Gold, Dark Highlights, Pure Black, Pure White, all RMS) The water base Lichen, moss and blood effects (because I had to try "weathering").
More infos and WIP here. Looking forward to your c&c!
Since we have lockdown where I live I was put on short term work. This gives me a lot of free time, a good part of which I am using to improve my painting. I have no formal art education whatsoever and am trying to make up for this by watching a lot of youtube and experimenting (and posting questions here on the board...).
Recently I started a project where I challenged myself to using only a few paints for a mini. During my youtube research I found a lot of videos about mixing all your colours by using only primary colours. I found this concept really fascinating and want to try it out with my mini painting.
The colours used for this were blue (rather dark, ultramarineish), red, yellow, brown (something like a burnt umbra) and a white. The video recommended using single pigment paints. Since the artist was using oil paints for his demo, I can't just go out and buy those specific paints, so I need their equivalents in miniature paints, preferably Reaper.
Which paints would be best for this kind of paint mixing? For white, Pure White is probably a no brainer. For the rest, I lack experience.
I would be thrilled for some recommendations from anyone who has tried such a technique already - or knows a bit about the properties of the reaper paints.
Thanks for your help!
I haven’t been on the forum much this year. Since joining Anne Foerster’s Patreon I’ve been spending more time on Discord.
I’ve been painting this guy following the paintalong she’s done for one of the tiers. It’s the first time I’ve tried to do a “display quality” paint job. Other firsts are NMM, freehand, leather texture, cloth texture, and sculpted base elements.
I actually started this guy early this year, but then stopped painting altogether for about 4 months after the pandemic started. I picked him back up in July and am getting close to finishing. I’m posting a series of pics I’ve taken as I went, and will continue to post as I finish him up soon.
Feb 29: prepped and primed, with some minor GS work
Mar 1: base GS sculpting
— LONG BREAK —
Aug 2: skin lined, basecoated, and shaded
Aug 6: skin initial highlights
This was my Secret Sophie gift to Inarah. I had a lot of fun painting it, though I was cranky there wasn't much room to play with freehand! Let's see... the crystals are a combination of sculpey, green stuff, sprue cut into crystal shapes and actual small quartz crystals. You can buy them cheap online in bulk. Great for terrain projects. The colors are nightmare black, clouded sea and mint green, then after I was done highlighting, I glazed the whole thing except in the light effect area with pthalo green. It knocked down the highlights a bit and I like the more teal look it gives. The fire was pure white, sun yellow, marigold yellow, fire red and spattered crimson. I think I used some Golden brand carbon black for the deep shadows.
Anyway, enjoy! I didn't do a lot of WIP stuff for this one, sorry! er, and my camera was dead so I had to use my phone. The balance is always funky.
I decided I wanted to work on OSL, so I planned ahead of time while painting the miniature. I find this helpful for OSL. I decide where I'll have the light effect and then up the highlighting on that side keeping in mind the spread and direction of the light. Then when I add the colored effect, the highlighting is already done. I think where I see folks fall down on lighting is one of two things: remembering that light is brightest at its source and lessens outwards, or thinking that light is color rather than brightness or higher value. Meaning we have to highlight first before we add the light effect, or it just looks like paint, not light. If you take a black and white photo of a mini, you should be able to see the light and effect is closer to white. If done incorrectly, the light effect will disappear. You also have to darken shadows elsewhere to sell the effect. It becomes complicated, but in all honesty, you can do OSL with drybrushing, as long as you remember to highlight first!
Enjoy! C&C always welcome!
Here's what I mean with the black and white photo- see how you don't see the color of the light, but you still see the light?
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