Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Double post! Yay! :bday:


While I'm not really happy with the spider webs, I'm absolutely thrilled how the blood effect turned out:




Here's a quick how-to:

  1. Attached a fine nylon thread with UV-resin to the poor Baron's head
  2. Used an UV-torch to cure the resin
  3. Fixed the other end of the thread to the rim of the base with blue tack
  4. Reinforced the thread with more resin using a disposable brush
  5. Torch
  6. More layers of resin
  7. More torching::): in between
  8. Cut the thread right below where a bigger drop had formed
  9. Repeated steps 6&7 a few more times
  10. Painted the resin with blood effect. Got some blood effect on my fingers. That stuff looks REALISTIC!

(UV-resin, UV-torch and blood effect by Greenstuffworld.)


Now, there's only the water missing. But that's not for today. I hope there's enough resin left, I just bought a tiny bottle to try it out. Will buy more, definitely, I just love that product!

  • Like 9
Link to post
Share on other sites

The blood did turn out well.  On the topic of spiderwebs.  You might google Abaroths World and look into his web tutorials in his models section.  Cheaper than commercial products and IMO better results.  Might give you some ideas.  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks @snitchythedog!


Just checked out the website you recommended. An absolute gold mine! I see me spending a lot of time browsing through all those how-tos.



I finished the resin pour. Originally I planned to tint the water a bit with inks to make it murkier. But my huge spider web made it very tough to access all the spots, so I dropped that idea and poured straight out of the dropper bottle. The resin has about the consistency of glue, so I had to guide it a bit with a toothpick to reach all the spots it should, still I did not manage to even it out completely.

For containing the resin I used a silicone mould (by Greenstuffworld) that fit the base perfectly (they come in a set to fit all standard size bases, another great product). This worked very well. The sides came out a bit milky, though. That's no problem, you can clear them up with either a coat of gloss varnish or a coat of still water effects (my preferred method).


At the center of the base the resin created some weird white texture. Maybe it reacted with something (though I didn't use any special products on that spot) or it just didn't properly connect to the ground. I can't tell if that happened before or during the curing process, my huge spider web blocked the view and the damage was done without me even noticing. Good thing is: Because of the web, that spot is hard to see anyway.


Here's a picture right after the curing of the resin:




I then cut away all the excess resin and applied a final coat of Vallejo Still Water to gloss up the edges.


And that completes my little fairy project. I learned a lot during the process and I would call it a success, overall. It made my try a lot of things I wouldn't have tried otherwise and it pushed me way out of my comfort zone. If I could change one thing it would definitely be the web, but then again there are so many other minis waiting to be painted, I'll just file that under "lessons learned" and move on.


Thanks to everyone who came along for the ride!


  • Like 11
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By Samedi
      Finally finished!
      Every aspect of this project was decided by rolling on random tables, resulting in:
      This mini (Fairy Huntress by Dark Sword Minis) The spider webs (because I had to somehow turn her into the victim of the scene) A very limited palette (Deep Red, Palomino Gold, Dark Highlights, Pure Black, Pure White, all RMS) The water base Lichen, moss and blood effects (because I had to try "weathering").  
      More infos and WIP here. Looking forward to your c&c!

    • By Samedi
      Since we have lockdown where I live I was put on short term work. This gives me a lot of free time, a good part of which I am using to improve my painting. I have no formal art education whatsoever and am trying to make up for this by watching a lot of youtube and experimenting (and posting questions here on the board...). 
      Recently I started a project where I challenged myself to using only a few paints for a mini. During my youtube research I found a lot of videos about mixing all your colours by using only primary colours. I found this concept really fascinating and want to try it out with my mini painting.
      The colours used for this were  blue (rather dark, ultramarineish), red, yellow, brown (something like a burnt umbra) and a white. The video recommended using single pigment paints. Since the artist was using oil paints for his demo, I can't just go out and buy those specific paints, so I need their equivalents in miniature paints, preferably Reaper.
      Which paints would be best for this kind of paint mixing? For white, Pure White is probably a no brainer. For the rest, I lack experience. 
      I would be thrilled for some recommendations from anyone who has tried such a technique already - or knows a bit about the properties of the reaper paints.
      Thanks for your help!
    • By SGHawkins09
      Recently finished this lovely mini from Dark Sword. Toyed with a few ideas but the winter theme ended up being the one that stuck. I wish I had had more time to spend on it but I am happy with how she turned out. 

    • By rubegon
      I haven’t been on the forum much this year.  Since joining Anne Foerster’s Patreon I’ve been spending more time on Discord.
      I’ve been painting this guy following the paintalong she’s done for one of the tiers.  It’s the first time I’ve tried to do a “display quality” paint job.  Other firsts are NMM, freehand, leather texture, cloth texture, and sculpted base elements.
      I actually started this guy early this year, but then stopped painting altogether for about 4 months after the pandemic started.  I picked him back up in July and am getting close to finishing.  I’m posting a series of pics I’ve taken as I went, and will continue to post as I finish him up soon.

      Feb 29: prepped and primed, with some minor GS work

      Mar 1:  base GS sculpting

      — LONG BREAK —
      Aug 2:  skin lined, basecoated, and shaded

      Aug 6:  skin initial highlights

    • By Corporea
      This was my Secret Sophie gift to Inarah.  I had a lot of fun painting it, though I was cranky there wasn't much room to play with freehand!  Let's see... the crystals are a combination of sculpey, green stuff, sprue cut into crystal shapes and actual small quartz crystals. You can buy them cheap online in bulk. Great for terrain projects.  The colors are nightmare black, clouded sea and mint green, then after I was done highlighting, I glazed the whole thing except in the light effect area with pthalo green. It knocked down the highlights a bit and I like the more teal look it gives.  The fire was pure white, sun yellow, marigold yellow, fire red and spattered crimson. I think I used some Golden brand carbon black for the deep shadows.
      Anyway, enjoy!  I didn't do a lot of WIP stuff for this one, sorry! er, and my camera was dead so I had to use my phone.  The balance is always funky.

      I decided I wanted to work on OSL, so I planned ahead of time while painting the miniature. I find this helpful for OSL. I decide where I'll have the light effect and then up the highlighting on that side keeping in mind the spread and direction of the light.  Then when I add the colored effect, the highlighting is already done. I think where I see folks fall down on lighting is one of two things:  remembering that light is brightest at its source and lessens outwards, or thinking that light is color rather than brightness or higher value. Meaning  we have to highlight first before we add the light effect, or it just looks like paint, not light.  If you take a black and white photo of a mini, you should be able to see the light and effect is closer to white. If done incorrectly, the light effect will disappear.  You also have to darken shadows elsewhere to sell the effect. It becomes complicated, but in all honesty, you can do OSL with drybrushing, as long as you remember to highlight first!
      Enjoy! C&C always welcome!

      Here's what I mean with the black and white photo- see how you don't see the color of the light, but you still see the light?
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 1 Anonymous, 33 Guests (See full list)

  • Create New...