Jump to content

Recommended Posts

12 hours ago, Knight of the Dinner Table said:

This might get very interesting mini-wise ... (already backing for the rooms, but those minis ... there is a lot of want in there).


Agreed! I backed exclusively for the minis - $65 or so gets you a ton of interesting minis, many of which are excellent and unique townsfolk types.

Edited by Marc
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 214
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

45 minutes ago, Knight of the Dinner Table said:

Well, the minis alone are $65. For $20 I get enough walls / floors to build a dungeon or several houses ... I feel that's very good value.


Agreed. I’m mostly in for the mini’s, but the pricing incentivizes you to get the €85 pledge tier. Great, I’ll just get multiples of the Tower and Castle rooms, plus some battlements add-ons, and use them to make towers, etc. 

 

I’ve run modules that had Daern’s Instant Fortress as a big part of a battle. It wasn’t easy to represent it well on the table. Being able to make a three-level fortress tower out of these tiles and walls would be perfect for that. 

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Remember that the mini's in the SG's are packaged in the SG's, not the Townsfolk mini's set. 


Dragon pic in latest update! I the flame is not attached to the head

 

ff7f44afaca4cff1c83d606fa16c9e03_origina

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Y’all, I got my DL2 shipment today. Three boxes of stretch goals full of almost 200 elements that I didn’t pay for. The bonus dragon I forgot about, the skellie in the g-cube...I feel bad for having not backed them more the last time around :lol:

F151AB81-668F-4569-82F1-90BB434CAA96.jpeg
 

Definitely keeping my DL3 pledge and will go over it more thoroughly to see what I want to get and add to my repertoire. 
 

I now remember I chickened out of getting the xenodragon and went for Draculus; I loved his name haha. 

 

This is a great company!!

Edited by Adrift
  • Like 4
  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Did someone here get Origon? Are the wings separate on the sprue or already weirdly molten on him? I like him, but those wings with the super swol tiny arms look kinda weird.

Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, Adrift said:

Y’all, I got my DL2 shipment today. Three boxes of stretch goals full of almost 200 elements that I didn’t pay for. The bonus dragon I forgot about, the skellie in the g-cube...I feel bad for having not backed them more the last time around :lol:

F151AB81-668F-4569-82F1-90BB434CAA96.jpeg
 

Definitely keeping my DL3 pledge and will go over it more thoroughly to see what I want to get and add to my repertoire. 
 

I now remember I chickened out of getting the xenodragon and went for Draculus; I loved his name haha. 

 

This is a great company!!

I mean, technically you did pay for the stretch goals. They’re factored into the cost.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Nunae said:

Did someone here get Origon? Are the wings separate on the sprue or already weirdly molten on him? I like him, but those wings with the super swol tiny arms look kinda weird.

I don't think that dragon was part of the last KS...

Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, Nunae said:

Did someone here get Origon? Are the wings separate on the sprue or already weirdly molten on him? I like him, but those wings with the super swol tiny arms look kinda weird.

Origon was their free dragon for DL2. 
 

Fresh out the box:

 

8D01EA6D-6BBE-4CAA-B18F-D9559EB56A75.jpeg
 

I intend on NOT using the wings as well. 

Edited by Adrift
  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
48 minutes ago, Adrift said:

Origon was their free dragon for DL2. 
 

Fresh out the box:

 

8D01EA6D-6BBE-4CAA-B18F-D9559EB56A75.jpeg
 

I intend on NOT using the wings as well. 

Oh, cool. I don't remember seeing it. Maybe I missed the second KS?

 

How hard to you think it would be to not use the wings and patch up the mini to hid where they were to connect? I think it's a perfectly nice lung dragon without them...

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Terrain is something I've dabbled in, but never gone all in for.  What would your opinions be on going in on this as my primary set vs. some of the other options out there? As hard plastic I assume it's durable, relatively light, and paints up well?

 

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

@AlonTeythank you for posting pics of sprue and build pre-prime.  Nice touch with the added reaper piece.

 

Can anyone tell me how clean these are putting together?  I'm already in for the villagers and stuff, may get some dragons and ks 2 extras, but I'm worried this is going to be like wrath of kings.  I bought a bunch of sets that were crazy cheap on minature market, but when i got them and started trying to assemble them i understood the markdowns.   They are poorly made, at least from what i have worked with before.  I am not expecting GW level, but need to know where to set my expectations.  I bought a Core box of bones 4, and feel they do a good job of matching up without a lot of milliput or seam sealing.  

 

I guess I'm asking if anyone can compare these to another brand or assembly?  Can they be plastic cemented together or need super glue?  

 

Either way, the amount they are shipping with how much you pay is a really really good deal.  I'm excited, just looking to prepare myself for what may be in those boxes. 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
12 hours ago, Disciple of Sakura said:

Oh, cool. I don't remember seeing it. Maybe I missed the second KS?

 

How hard to you think it would be to not use the wings and patch up the mini to hid where they were to connect? I think it's a perfectly nice lung dragon without them...

I looked at that myself and didn’t feel like it would be much trouble covering the wing attachment points and blending it out. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Auberon said:

Terrain is something I've dabbled in, but never gone all in for.  What would your opinions be on going in on this as my primary set vs. some of the other options out there? As hard plastic I assume it's durable, relatively light, and paints up well?

 

Yep. You can start with if you want to build a dungeon, castle, or a village.

 

Dungeons are less expensive:

* Village pledge: Fantasy Core Set, three rooms

* Closed Doors and/or Functional Doors (with Fantasy Door Frames)

* Stretch Goals 1 and 2 (optional, but SG1 has three stairs)

 

Castles:

* Village pledge: Castle rooms.

* Closed Doors and/or Functional Doors (with Fantasy Door Frames)

* Stretch Goals 1 and 2 (optional, but SG1 has three stairs)

* Add-Ons: Ballustrades (?). Not sure how many, but each room is nine 2"x2" game tiles.

 

Villages are more expensive. This gets you two buildings. You may want multiple Village pledges, which will get you more free Townsfolk miniatures and SG's. Note that the KS does not have doors with wooden doorway frames!

* Village pledge and Add-Ons: One Roof Set for every two Rooms.

* Closed Doors and/or Functional Doors (with Fantasy Door Frames)

* Stretch Goals 1 and 2 (optional, but SG1 has three stone stairs)

* Add-Ons: Those rail things. See if the wooden stairs are in SG3.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Similar Content

    • By veoviscool12
      Overview
       
      I recently finished my first piece of scatter terrain! I used it as a test for a bunch of techniques I'd been learning from The Terrain Tutor YouTube channel. I used two boulders that I had cast using the Woodland Scenic rock molds (I think one was from mold C1233 and the other from C1230, but I could be mistaken) and Durham's Water Putty. I had painted them up previously for practice, and noticed that together they made a pretty nice split boulder. I had an extra 3' x 3' foam core square from my ongoing dungeon tile project, and decided to make some scatter terrain as a diversion from all the Bones V waiting to be painted.
       

      A picture of the finished piece with a Reaper goblin mini (77024) for scale.
       
      Process - Sculpting
       
      I started by peeling off one side of the foam core paper, and used a hobby knife to create a shallow slope around the center. Then, I used Liquitex Modeling Paste to create a big glob in the middle for the boulders to sit in, fill in all the cracks, and smooth out the transition from stone to foam. I deliberately let some of the paste squeeze up into the crack between the two rocks to create the impression of a smooth arc of soil that had built up over time. The paste can be mixed with paints, but due to the way I wanted to apply texture later on I decided against it. Once the paste had dried, I moved on to applying texture and painting the ground.
       

      You can see that initial soil arc here; I sculpted it a bit further to achieve a more realistic look.
       

      More sculpting and slathering to mask the edges of the rock and create the illusion that it's buried in soil.
       
       
      Process - Ground Texture and Painting
       
      The next step was to add texture and paint to the ground. I first applied a layer of Burnt Umber acrylic that had been mixed with a bit of PVA (white glue; the Elmer's stuff. I got a two pack at Dollar Tree that works fine. Don't get the school variety as it's extremely watered down and doesn't stick nearly as well). Then I drizzled on a "soil" mix I had made from: mostly fine sand, some coffee grounds, and a little cat litter. Ideally, the paint/PVA mixture should be laid on thick enough to absorb all this grit and cement it in place once it dries. I didn't apply enough of it, so as an additional measure I spritzed the whole thing with a 6:1 water/PVA mixture. This worked in sealing everything, but made the piece extremely damp and necessitated leaving it to dry overnight.
       
      After everything was dry, I put on a layer of Raw Umber to darken the soil, unify the grit, and cover up any exposed bits of white modeling paste. Once that was finished, I did a quick dry brush pass with a lightened Raw Umber to bring out the texture of the soil. With that, the ground was finished!
       
      I must admit, at this point I had what looked like a great riverbed and boulder on my hands and was tempted to do a deep pour water effect! But I quickly reigned myself in since that was not the goal of this project. Soon though, soon...
       

      The ground texture anchored in the paint. Bits of this came off at various points during the process,
      but the PVA did its job quite well, considering.
       

      The Raw Umber did a good job of tying everything together, and let bits of the Burnt umber through
      for some lighter patches.
       
       
      Process - Boulder Paint Touch-ups
       
      As much I wanted to get to the main event (flocking!), I needed to touch up the lower edge of the boulder; there was no way I could hide all of it. So I did a quick and dirty touch up with the same wet technique I used to paint them initially: a base coat of grey, and once that's dry, watered down browns, greens, and blacks to create color variations, moss, and dirt. Finally a quick homemade black wash added the final touch. I also used the black wash to mark out some rivulets that would have carved their way out from the crack and create a bit more variety in the soil. Then finally, I could move on to the most anticipated bit: the flocking!
       

      The initial stripe of grey paint across the bottom of the boulder. I wasn't too meticulous; the water
      from the next layers smoothed out the transitions between the existing paint job and the new one.
       

      An example of some of the blotches and colors I was applying. Unfortunately I don't have a picture
      that includes the black wash.
       
       
      Process - Flocking and Final Touches
       
      The flocking itself was relatively simple. I used three shades of Woodland Scenics Fine Turf:
       
      Burnt Grass - T44 (highlight) Green Grass - T45 (base) Weeds - T46 (shade)  
      First, I applied PVA glue that had been slightly watered down, just enough so it's almost a liquid but not quite. Then, I sprinkled the highlight into the more open areas where the grass would be drier, the shade into wetter and more covered spots, so near the rock and crack, and then covered everything with a healthy dose of the base. I didn't use a lot of the highlight because I was worried I'd overdo it, but I could have used more as the base really takes over if you let it. I tapped off the excess flocking that hadn't been absorbed by the PVA before using a tiny bit of Coarse Turf (Medium Green - T64) to create a little bush in one side of the crack, and one out in the open. I used a toothpick to drop a bit of regular PVA where I wanted the bush to go, and then just stuck it in place. After about an hour elapsed, I sealed the whole thing by spraying it with the 6:1 water/PVA mixture and leaving it to dry overnight.
       
      The final touch was to use black paint to seal the white edges of the foam core.  I'm very pleased with the end result, and it's solid as a rock. This will certainly be able to stand up to some abuse without losing any flocking or texture. Thanks for reading this far!
       

      Two more glamor shots of the finished piece; this is the first one. You can just spot the bush peeking out
      of the crack in the middle, and some cat litter "stones" in the field.
       

      Here's the other side, with a bush on the left and a "wetter" appearance around the crack. Some of the
      lighter Burnt Umber is also peeking through at the front left edge.
    • By Metalchaos
      Hello everyone! Halloween is getting close... now's a good time to start chewing garlic. Here's my 77137, Sarcophagus sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
       

       

       

       

       

       

    • By Metalchaos
      Hey everyone, here is another model on which I practiced marble painting as an alternative to regular stone. This 77634, Graveyard Statue was sculpted by Bob Ridolfi.
       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

       

    • By Metalchaos
      Since even cultists love fashion, I went with purple marble on this one. This is the Bones version of the 77139, Altar of Evil sculpted by Bob Olley.
       

       

       

       

       

    • By Metalchaos
      Hey everyone, here's a two-piece model I painted for my current D&D campaign. Strongly attached to the Halloween theme 77540, Large Sarcophagus sculpted by Kevin Williams. A place of eternal rest, unless there are ghouls around.
       

       

       

       

       

  • Who's Online   7 Members, 0 Anonymous, 23 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...