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Bones 5 Kickstarter Figure Assembly Questions & Advice

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This is a thread for any and all questions, advice, tips and tricks for all of the figures from the Bones 5 kickstarter! Feel free to post pictures when asking questions or to illustrate your advice.



Thank you @lexomatic for the idea!

Edited by Guindyloo
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I did not even get a ship but I am such a “ship nerd” I can tell you which mast goes where, which way they point, what the ships scale dimensions are…


Ships are my thing. Ask away. 

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2 hours ago, TGP said:

I did not even get a ship but I am such a “ship nerd” I can tell you which mast goes where, which way they point, what the ships scale dimensions are…


Ships are my thing. Ask away. 


A ship of that size should also have a bilge below the bottom level produced by Reaper, should it not?


I’m planning to use an EVA foam floor mat to make a bottom level, for multi-level combats. Cut it out to fit under the bottom layer, and create planking and wood texture with a box cutter and heat gun (cosplay EVA foam tutorials have techniques to achieve wood texture, though usually on a larger scale).

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24 minutes ago, Jodie said:

What glue should I use for assembling my bones 5? PVC for plastic miniatures or 

Loctite Instant Adhesive 40?



I use cyanoacrylate glue aka “Crazy Glue” or “Super Glue”.  DH favors the Loctite Ultra gel with the blue cap.  I use whatever's handy.... Gorilla gel at the moment. 

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2 hours ago, ksbsnowowl said:
5 hours ago, TGP said:

I did not even get a ship but I am such a “ship nerd” I can tell you which mast goes where, which way they point, what the ships scale dimensions are…


Ships are my thing. Ask away. 



A ship of that size should also have a bilge below the bottom level produced by Reaper, should it not?

Short answer: Yes


Definitive answer: Only Sculptor Chris Lewis knows for sure. 


At least one deck, maybe two, possibly three, depending on how deep into the water you want to imagine the ship is. 

It could be a shallow draft design or have a deeper draft. (Draft = the depth below the water line.)


Bilge is the flat part of the hull interior right next to the keel. Lowest point in the hull. Bottom of the hold. 

Orlop deck is a feature that could exist below the main gun deck (sometimes only in the stern—sort of a half deck).

USS Constitution (detailed plans exist) has a Berth Deck, Orlop Deck, and a Hold at the bottom. All of those under the Main Gun deck. 


Decks included in the model, top to bottom:


1. Poop deck

2. Quarter deck

2. Forecastle deck

3. Upper deck

4. Main Gun deck  


2 & 2 are not a mistake, they are effectively the same level. 

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33 minutes ago, WolfLord said:

Anybody having an issue with placing the seat boards on the sailboat from the Brinewind Expansion?

Are they too wide?

Do they rattle / not quite wide enough?

What is the issue?

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The head of the cyclops from the Greek set would not fit into the body for me at all.  I had to boil the head for a good minute in order to soften the plastic enough to get it in.

Edited by JGF
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@Chaoswolfi agree. Some situations i use gel while most i use regular super glue. I buy the 2 or 3 packs at Dollar Tree. If you're going on a bender for gluing, you can snag the large $1 bottle. I try not to buy those big ones because they dry or get finicky after a few uses. 


Pro-tip that i picked up from a youtube video on one of my many blackhole dives into hobby videos was: bonding things with baking soda. My method with this is used 2 ways: 

Option 1 - filing the larger receiving "socket" end with superglue, then dipping a small amount of baking soda on the "plug" end. It should almost look like it's dusty, not caked. The second those two ends come in contact it's like magic - bond is faster and even reinforced. *note - do not overdo this dip into the baking soda as it does take volume of space and if too much it will not give you an ideal fit. 

Option 2 (my fav) - i keep a small squirt bottle of mixed 80% isopropyl w/ 20% baking soda. I fill the "socket" end with glue, then spray the receiving end with the iso-mix.  It dries insanely fast, still creates that baking soda bond, and slightly fills minor gaps. *note - play with this on something else first before so you can see how much to use and what bonding time looks like. 


I still fill gaps in with milliput after, but this reduces my time and often lessens the amount of filler i need AND has the added benefit of a better bond between the glued parts. It's basically a cement when done.


I think both LukesAPS, EonsOfBattle, TerrainTutor, and Miniac have all done videos on this method.  


It had helped me greatly in putting models together and saving me time.  



Figured I'd add examples: 

Here's that wererat i finished, but you can see where i sealed the arm and tail area.  First was superglue w iso-baking soda mix, then finished with milliput.20210704_124008.thumb.jpg.6683c91142ca321958c1bb4e5770d3e9.jpg20210704_124000.thumb.jpg.f33fc609648143074857e27db26b0642.jpg


Then primed... you'd never even know. 




Edited by R2ED
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12 hours ago, JGF said:

The head of the cyclops from the Greek set would not fit into the body for me at all.  I had to boil the head for a good minute in order to soften the plastic enough to get it in.

I did get the Greek set. I fished out cyclops and tried dry-fitting him.


The head slid into place without problem. I did have to check where the key-notch was first, but with that aligned it went right in.

Glad you got it to fit.

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@JGFand @TGP i watched another unboxing video for Bones 5 (why? Because i like to punish myself) and noted that the angle of that cyclops' head is a little funny.  Fitting that with the necklace thing looks to be a slight turn-until-it-works issue.  Screenshot_20210711-091424_Chrome.jpg.7f6df9943dec95aa7119547118538e2d.jpg


Even though it looks dead-on, there definitely seemed to be some turning until fit was needed.  Then again... some of the parts just have to be cut, pinned, and filled.  


I hope it's just a matter of turning, though. 

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My giant box of shame hasn’t arrived yet, but someone in the KS comments pointed out that Arakoth’s legs are labeled in some way, on the sprue each leg is attached to, much like a sprue kit would be. 

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