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Getting the shade I want; moving radially on the color wheel


Rainshine
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In the process of learning how to get the colors and effects I want on my paint jobs. Have played some with mixing different shades to try to get closer, just recently picked up LTP#2 and experimenting with glazes to shift colors in a more subtle way. Eluding me thusfar though, is how to shift within a single color. Adding some black has helped some -- to go from grass green to forest green, for example, but I haven't figured how to go the other way, or in a less dramatic fashion. Without actually having a different shade of the same color, is there something I can do to go from a dark wood brown to a light leather brown? Or, in the two examples currently on my table, go from a dark blue or bright red to something a bit lighter? I've tried glazing it with white, but really that just makes it look a bit plagued.

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Glazing using white is a nightmare! A glaze to to proper work have to be transparent, so the pigment itself should be transparent. White miniature paint are made with Titanium, and it's not transparent; zinc white would work better, but still, not every color may be made brighter using white: red and white= pink. Blue and white work well together but white will de-saturate the blues too fast.
What you can do is to use a bright color to make a brighter tone and use it to glaze on top of the color you wanna make it brighter.
Talking about red, you can mix a skin tone to it to make it brighter (I like sunny skin-tone) and use it to glaze on top of red (not directly with the skin-tone; skin tones usually contain white).
Also, if you want to make blue brighter you can use blue-green or turquoise, mix it with your dark blue and, little by little, make it brighter and brighter.
Using black in shadows is ok, but I use black only at the end. Before I fount it's better to use a dark tone.
For reds I use a very dark Purple (imperial purple), for blues I use dark sea blue, or if you want it to be saturated, dark prussian blue. Then if you are looking for a very deep shadow you may use black.
But not on everything! Using black on yellow is a very bad idea as it will turn green, better to use sienna first and burnt umber at the end. To make yellow brighter you may use ice yellow.
I use white only on reflections: nothing is brighter than light, so white should be used only on eyes reflections, NMM brighter spots, bright skin reflections, water, glass, plastic reflections, and so on.
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I hope this helps  🙂


Edit: I've just read, after writing my bible, than you are using a LTP kit. So your palette is limited.
If you do not have a skin-tone you can mix it using red, yellow and white;
Turquoise is a mix of blue and green and white;
Just use black for red shadows cause you probably do not have a transparent purple.
You can make green brighter using yellow.
And to answer about brown: add yellow and white to dark wood to make it brighter until your are satisfied.

Edited by Cicciopiu
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Thank you for the tips and the example. I have expanded my selection of bottles -- I have over fifty now I believe, from the two LTP kits, Citadel Starter pack, and some assorted other MSP and such I picked up a while ago. I should have a complete set of the MSP Pure/Clears that I could find, at least.

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