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Adhesion issue


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Hey everyone! I'm a huge Lord of the Rings fan and total noob to DND. I recently only became interested in DnD while searching for the miniatures for a Hobbiton diorama I'm planning on making. I actually did an unprimed Gandalf twice, once with an added wash, but there aren't really any sharp edges for the wash to pool into. It just made him darker so I did him again. For Radagast, I got some Vallejo primer and primed him first. I think I'm going to leave the washes off of them for now until I figure out the best way to do it. Can anyone confirm if Krylon Matte Finish will work for a clear coat? The Reaper paint seems to flake off easily when Radagast is handled. Gandalf does not have this issue and was not primed with the Vallejo. Are there any adhesion issues with mixing these 2 brands? Are there any 3d print materials that are better or worse than others? Thanks in advance and happy painting!

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45 minutes ago, ladyhawk84 said:

Can anyone confirm if Krylon Matte Finish will work for a clear coat?

 

Yes, this is the one I use.

 

paint_template-1.jpg.677d9cdf0ffac81af462a64d785a11e4.jpg

 

I usually use it over at least one gloss coat. Gloss will protect your paint from being handled better, and the coat of matte will kill the shine from the gloss. Just don't go crazy with the matte finish, it'll leave what we call "frosting" if you use too much... you'll know it if you see it, looks like white frost on your mini. Other brands might be better at avoiding the frosting effect, but the one you have should work as long as you don't go crazy with it.

 

50 minutes ago, ladyhawk84 said:

The Reaper paint seems to flake off easily when Radagast is handled. Gandalf does not have this issue and was not primed with the Vallejo. Are there any adhesion issues with mixing these 2 brands?

 

Not sure how new to painting you are, so we'll run down the standard checklist when it comes to adhesion issues.

  1. Did you wash the mini with soap and water and use a toothbrush to gently scrub it? You want to get any release agent the manufacturer used to get the mini out of the mold, and let it dry.
  2. Did you wash your hands before you touched the mini after washing/drying? If you have lots of oil on your hands/fingers, it'll transfer back onto the mini and you have the similar effect as if you didn't wash it at all.
  3. When you primed, did you give them primer long enough to cure at regular room temperature? The time you need varies by brand, and sometimes by application (regular brush vs airbrush), but you need to give it time to cure/dry, longer than the time with our basic paints. Vallejo primer gets mixed results from people, some people love it, others hate it.
  4. See #2 again. Did you touch the mini before painting? Same issue with the oil your skin produces happens even after you prime, or at any stage as you paint.

I've used Vallejo airbrush primer for several years (with a regular brush, not an airbrush), and as long as I make sure to wash the mini, not touch the surface I want to prime/paint, and give it at least overnight to cure (I prefer to do a full 24 hours) I haven't had any problems with it coming off.

 

Also try to avoid letting your mini sit where dust/pollen/pet hair can get on it while you are in drying stages/in between painting. You'll see the paint come off if too much dust gets on (don't let it sit for 5 days without dusting it off before you paint/prime).

 

Hope that helps to answer a bit!

 

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23 minutes ago, ManvsMini said:

 

Yes, this is the one I use.

 

paint_template-1.jpg.677d9cdf0ffac81af462a64d785a11e4.jpg

 

I usually use it over at least one gloss coat. Gloss will protect your paint from being handled better, and the coat of matte will kill the shine from the gloss. Just don't go crazy with the matte finish, it'll leave what we call "frosting" if you use too much... you'll know it if you see it, looks like white frost on your mini. Other brands might be better at avoiding the frosting effect, but the one you have should work as long as you don't go crazy with it.

 

 

Not sure how new to painting you are, so we'll run down the standard checklist when it comes to adhesion issues.

  1. Did you wash the mini with soap and water and use a toothbrush to gently scrub it? You want to get any release agent the manufacturer used to get the mini out of the mold, and let it dry.
  2. Did you wash your hands before you touched the mini after washing/drying? If you have lots of oil on your hands/fingers, it'll transfer back onto the mini and you have the similar effect as if you didn't wash it at all.
  3. When you primed, did you give them primer long enough to cure at regular room temperature? The time you need varies by brand, and sometimes by application (regular brush vs airbrush), but you need to give it time to cure/dry, longer than the time with our basic paints. Vallejo primer gets mixed results from people, some people love it, others hate it.
  4. See #2 again. Did you touch the mini before painting? Same issue with the oil your skin produces happens even after you prime, or at any stage as you paint.

I've used Vallejo airbrush primer for several years (with a regular brush, not an airbrush), and as long as I make sure to wash the mini, not touch the surface I want to prime/paint, and give it at least overnight to cure (I prefer to do a full 24 hours) I haven't had any problems with it coming off.

 

Also try to avoid letting your mini sit where dust/pollen/pet hair can get on it while you are in drying stages/in between painting. You'll see the paint come off if too much dust gets on (don't let it sit for 5 days without dusting it off before you paint/prime).

 

Hope that helps to answer a bit!

 

Yes this helps immensely. I did wash the minis and I did let it sit for 24 hours after priming. but I've since found out about the poster tack and pill bottle trick. I will try not to touch the mini once it's on the bottle. 

 

That is the Krylon I have and use for colored pencil drawings I do. But I will also try the clear coat first.

 

It's hard to see but the edge of his hat shows the flaking

20220117_113814.jpg

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56 minutes ago, ladyhawk84 said:

Yes this helps immensely. I did wash the minis and I did let it sit for 24 hours after priming. but I've since found out about the poster tack and pill bottle trick. I will try not to touch the mini once it's on the bottle. 

 

That is the Krylon I have and use for colored pencil drawings I do. But I will also try the clear coat first.

 

It's hard to see but the edge of his hat shows the flaking

20220117_113814.jpg

 

I can see what you mean on the brim of the hat, those white chips. Did you use a white primer or was the mini a white plastic/resin model? Just curious, to know if that is just the paint or the actual primer flaking off.

 

The gloss coat is optional, you really don't have to do it. If you aren't going to touch or handle the mini much (i.e. not play games) after painting, a matte finish will probably be enough. But if it gets touched a lot, you'll want the gloss coat, because the matte finish will rub off after a while. That gloss coat just protects the paint job after that happens. It's totally a personal preference. Some people who just paint and rarely handle their minis afterwards don't even use a finish. All depends on what you paint for... and possibly the paint brand you use, some aren't as durable as others.

 

I forgot to say it earlier, but welcome to the forums! Stick around and interact, you can find a lot of wisdom, humor, and nice people here.

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