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Bones 6 Enthusiasm and Commentary


Chaoswolf

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3 hours ago, haldir said:

When about did PP start putting out 3d prints? It's been forever since I've bought a PP mini, but curious to see which ones it was. I can understand their reasons for going that route as some of their figures were pretty big.

 

 

 

Last year as part of a big shake-up of the game.

All the factions are getting redesigned, and that's the stuff that's being 3D printed. All the older metal/resin/whatever minis are being phased out rather than converted (As far as I know).

 

Don't know how good their new stuff is, I've ordered a couple but their release dates keep getting pushed back.

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On 1/21/2023 at 3:34 PM, Goddesstio said:

so I'll repost here my discord tests:

image.png.34e8e184adece0cb87b8e17799377038.png

 

Dwarf, unpainted. You can see the detail in the feather down to the little lines, and his little combover. I put pressure on him in various points, and while I think if I tried hard I could break him at the legs, the visor does not bend, the book does not bend, and he is pretty durable. I threw him against the wall, and he had no damage. I then accidentally stepped on him when going to get the dragon bust, and he was also fine, surprisingly.

 

The goblin:

image.png.c41c40ec13c75e42b0d4f6df47d92340.png

 

A note that both the dwarf and goblin came with some small support strings that were easily removed. There's detail on the wood grain, his fingers under the chest, even the rope around the chest. Unlike the dwarf, he does NOT really bend at the legs, even when I apply some pretty good pressure. Very solid feeling. I threw him at the wall, and he was unphased. (I did not step on him).

 

I also, for the sake of science, got out my VIP Dragon Bust. I don't think this was cast by Reaper, but it's mostly solid, except the horns. When I squeezed them inward, they had some give. And, for the sake of science, I threw him against the wall.

image.png.0c4653146dbc4ca7a76ecb828866e878.png

 

Oops. I don't think he's going to be the standard though. 

 

So the little minis I have so far, they are good quality and durable.

Thank you for the scientific-ish testing. Based on that, I think I'm probably sold.

 

 

 

As far as what any given figure in Bones 6 is made of, the only reason I care is because I like to do conversions. I just want to know what a figure is made from so I know its (general) properties like how easy/hard it is to cut, or what tools I need to use to do the cutting.

 

PERSONAL OPINION TIME:  I have a lot more important things to be concerned with in my life than what material or process Reaper used to make my toy soldiers, or whether they got my ok on the decision beforehand.

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10 hours ago, Chaoswolf said:

because I like to do conversions. I just want to know what a figure is made from so I know its (general) properties like how easy/hard it is to cut, or what tools I need to use to do the cutting.

thats a good point, that I overlooked mostly because i do it so rarely. I assume for this very tough resin you'd need an abrasive grit based saw? which is not something I have. I think a lot of hobbyist just have an exacto knife. if anyone has experience cutting resin please let me know.

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2 minutes ago, 1dunnj said:

thats a good point, that I overlooked mostly because i do it so rarely. I assume for this very tough resin you'd need an abrasive grit based saw? which is not something I have. I think a lot of hobbyist just have an exacto knife. if anyone has experience cutting resin please let me know.

 

Depends on how brittle it is, usually a good sideclipper or a small hobby saw will do the trick.

When sawing wear a mask, resin dust is very unhealthy.

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23 hours ago, haldir said:

When about did PP start putting out 3d prints? It's been forever since I've bought a PP mini, but curious to see which ones it was. I can understand their reasons for going that route as some of their figures were pretty big.

 

 

Yeah, last year just before GenCon when they announced MKIV, one of the big parts was that they were going to get away from overseas injection molding and go to on shore production. Since metal is so expensive, production 3d printing was the solution they went with.  They were very sunshine and daisys about it, also pointing out that this production model and a partner that they have in Europe would allow them to actually bring costs for their stuff down for European customers, who historically have paid a high premium since the items had to be shipped into the US, repackaged, then shipped to the EU.

As with everything Privateer has done in the last decade, it has been a bit of a rocky transition.  They were badly oversold on their gencon army boxes and that set the whole production timeline back. They got started up with their european partner, who was actually using a slightly different resin. The US printer's resin was hard and brittle and lots of people ended up with broken bits. The european producer's resin was nice and flexible, but had some issues with warping.
 

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5 hours ago, Cygnwulf said:

Yeah, last year just before GenCon when they announced MKIV, one of the big parts was that they were going to get away from overseas injection molding and go to on shore production. Since metal is so expensive, production 3d printing was the solution they went with.  They were very sunshine and daisys about it, also pointing out that this production model and a partner that they have in Europe would allow them to actually bring costs for their stuff down for European customers, who historically have paid a high premium since the items had to be shipped into the US, repackaged, then shipped to the EU.

As with everything Privateer has done in the last decade, it has been a bit of a rocky transition.  They were badly oversold on their gencon army boxes and that set the whole production timeline back. They got started up with their european partner, who was actually using a slightly different resin. The US printer's resin was hard and brittle and lots of people ended up with broken bits. The european producer's resin was nice and flexible, but had some issues with warping.
 


And when Privateer Press first started touting the 3d Printing, they threw China under the bus and said it would give them the ability to inspect everything and when I told them that they wouldn't be able to inspect the stuff in Europe they essentially told me to shut up and that I didn't know what I was talking about. And hey, looks like the peeps in Europe aren't sharing their resin mix/formula with the mainland because it's proprietary so who's laughing now eh?

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6 hours ago, 1dunnj said:

thats a good point, that I overlooked mostly because i do it so rarely. I assume for this very tough resin you'd need an abrasive grit based saw? which is not something I have. I think a lot of hobbyist just have an exacto knife. if anyone has experience cutting resin please let me know.

I do know from my 3D prints that using clippers is a bad idea. Tried to clip a mini off of the base tab it was on (the kind that metal minis have that go into slotta bases this was an early 3D print file that also had one). Clipped it easily enough, but snapped the mini at the ankle while doing so.

 

A hobby saw is definitely the way to go.

6 hours ago, Glitterwolf said:

 

Depends on how brittle it is, usually a good sideclipper or a small hobby saw will do the trick.

When sawing wear a mask, resin dust is very unhealthy.

Sideclippers didn’t work for me. A hobby saw worked well.

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5 minutes ago, Olaf the Stout said:

I do know from my 3D prints that using clippers is a bad idea. Tried to clip a mini off of the base tab it was on (the kind that metal minis have that go into slotta bases this was an early 3D print file that also had one). Clipped it easily enough, but snapped the mini at the ankle while doing so.

 

 

I'll note that this happened with me with Tomb Guardian Miniatures.  Brittle as hell material and clipping it at the base snapped the leg in half.  Using a new Xacto Knife produced another break but not as bad.

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Side clippers are really designed for more malleable materials, like softer plastics or metals.  those substances can deform under the pressure until the sharp edges are pressed in deep and begin to really almost tear them apart along the very thin line of the edge.

Hard materials are more prone to fracture than cut under this kind of pressure, and the shock of that fracture can spread out from the pressure point pretty easily.  Those kinds of materials are better cut with very small, more abrasive like cuts, like those from a saw or cutoff disk.

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10 hours ago, Cygnwulf said:

Side clippers are really designed for more malleable materials, like softer plastics or metals.  those substances can deform under the pressure until the sharp edges are pressed in deep and begin to really almost tear them apart along the very thin line of the edge.

Hard materials are more prone to fracture than cut under this kind of pressure, and the shock of that fracture can spread out from the pressure point pretty easily.  Those kinds of materials are better cut with very small, more abrasive like cuts, like those from a saw or cutoff disk.

 

I should have mentioned

 

I use sideclippers for 3D prints when they come out of the machine, wash/alcohol then clip before they're cured.

At that time they're still pretty soft and then it works.

After curing sawing is better.

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