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Plasticard


Darkrelease
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I buy mine at a Model Railroad Shop. They always have several different styles and thickness in stock...I like the kind with the cobblestones pretextured into the surface, but they never have that stuff in when I'm there :angry:

 

Definately look in your phone book under Hobby Supply. Bring your checkbook, you are definately going to find more stuff there that you'll want to use for minis...I'm not allowed to go to my local Model Train Store by myself <_< My Fiancee swears that we'll go broke if I do.

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So what scale do you buy?  I found a Canadian retailer ( http://www.modelbuilderssupply.com/ ) but need to determine what scale to buy.  Thye suggest a model railroad scale of G= 1:24 – O=1:50 and HO=1:100.  Not sure what scale railroad would work with a standard 28 -32 mm mini though??

For styrene with a design pattern like flagstone/cobblestone I'd go with O gauge since I design buildings, etc in 1/60 scale and O is close enough for my purposes. A lot of things look fine in HO as well depending on the surface texture but if I can't see it in person I stick with O. Interesting site (model build sup).

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Just FYI 28mm best approximates S scale (1/64). O scale is 1/48 and HO is 1/87.

 

I buy all my sheet plastic at my local hobby shop. A pack of 3 sheets of .015" sheets cost me $2.49 US. I personally prefer Evergreen over Plastruct...

 

For gluing plastic-to-plastic, use a solvent based glue like Plastruct Plastic Weld (works on styrene, Acrylic, ABS & Butyrate all to each-other). Works better than either cyano or eploxy as it chemically bonds the two parts together...

 

Damon.

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I buy all my sheet plastic at my local hobby shop. A pack of 3 sheets of .015" sheets cost me $2.49 US. I personally prefer Evergreen over Plastruct...

What size are the sheets in the 3 pack for that price? Do you just prime and paint or is there something special to painting? Do you cut and shape with a hobby knife?

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I think the sheets are 4"x11", a bit smaller than a typical sheet of paper. I do all cutting with a hobby knife, usually over a pattern I pre-drew for te piece. I don't attempt to cut straight through, but rather "score" the card and then snap the piece off. You have better control over your knife this way, instead of applying a lit of pressure to cut trough it. If the plastic is thin enough you can also use cissors, though again whether you di this or not is a control issue. I'll then use a little wet-dry sandpaper to refine the shape if needed, or to clean up joints. Often it is best to use a piece of plastic rod to reinforce joints, especially if you're using thin plastic. Its also best to use plastic soon after purchase, especially if you envision the piece as having a number of curves; plastic does "age" and eventually become more brittle.

 

I don't prime my plastic for painting, but that's because I use hobby paints meant to be used on plastic. If you're using figure paints, its probably best to prime it.

 

Damon.

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