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Your water texture is really well done.  Maybe could have added a few splashes around the base of the shipwreck, but all in all it looks good.

The wood base is a bit softer on the details (and looks a bit hazardous if it was real).  I think you pushed the detail in too far and did not back smooth to get crisp edges.  Try using a mix of GS and Apoxie sculpt; it allows for sharp edges more easily.  That said it does look good, I'd just personally want sharper edges/details.

Thanks for showing us. (Oh and I moved this here to help get more feed back and views).

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10 hours ago, Diane Robles said:

Thank you, I've been wanting feedback, I used a air dried product called "Sculpey" I don't know what GS means, sorry, could you please let me know. Thank you!

 

GS is Greenstuff, a 2 part tape you knead together to make a very strong "clay" that you can mold onto your minis ore terrain. Dries rock-hard and can then be sanded, drilled, etc.

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As Corsair said, GS = Greenstuff = Kneadatite Putty. It is an epoxy resin putty.  You can get it on Amazon.  Before digital came along, most minis were (and many still are) sculpted in GS. It self cures in about an hour or two. It cures to the consistency of hard rubber.

image.thumb.png.df009dbbb0c3cc6f1650a05d244ab087.png

 

Apoxie Sculpt is another epoxy putty with some different qualities than Green Stuff.  It cures rock hard and tools better than GS alone.  I personally do not like working in Apoxie Sculpt alone as it is very soft.  A 1:1 mix with GS though makes a perfect putty for many applications.  It is more toolable and harder curing that GS alone and more sculptable than Apoxie alone.

 

image.png.8d2877ca0888130980ea89bfb11fad14.png

With both of the above, use Vaseline or water to lubricate your tools.


Sculpey works too, especially Super Sculpey but typically need to be baked. Another brand (preferred by many figure sculptors), is FIMO.  These are polymer clays.  They do not stick to things are well as the epoxy putties.  I'm not an expert at using these clays as I was always a GS sculptor.  @Rainbow Sculptor can give you some pointers though if you need it.



I will say that for basic bases and gap filling, GS and Apoxie Sculpt will serve you better as they stick well to the model and do not require heat to fully setup.

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I have done many WIPs and tutorials over the years to help others learn the process of sculpting. As these are now hard to find, I'll post a few of them here.  The BMPC Sculpt-along especially has a lot of the basic information.

- BMPC Sculpt-Along

- Making of the Catoblepas

- Boxer Rebellion

- Guinea Pigmies

- Ittie Bittie Kitties

- Basilisk

- Dragon-kin

- Trogs

- Making of the Reaper Chaos Toads

- Beholder (my first full sculpt)

 

There are many others, but this give a good sample of technique and discussion.

I should also note that, though this may look daunting being full figures, the techniques are the same for doing bases and conversions.  Bear in mind, that I actually started sculpting by making bases for my painting first for years, before I ever decided to try a full sculpt.

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I like the water base, it's rather well done.

 

The wood base, you might want to consider using a knife or other sharp blade to cut the boards themselves, and then clean them up after texturing there.

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I just read your comment and was like Duh... That was too obvious for me! I've been using wood sculpting tools, they were cheap for a reason! (BTW, I just dropped some crumbs in my keyboard, lemon shortbread in case anyone asks:)

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