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Reaper Paint Questions


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First, I'm wondering if there is a good way to keep the bottle tips from clogging up with paint? I've ran into this several times and I end up taking the bottle(s) to the sink with a toothpick and spend a good minute or so trying to clean dried paint out of the tip. Doesn't happen with all the bottles, but it's a pain how it can really slow down your work.

 

Second, I'm curious about the gaps in the numbering (like 9073, in-between Rust Brown 9072 and Palomino Gold 9074). I'm guessing where there is a gap, it means a paint has been discontinued. Does that also mean that the number gets retired or would a different paint go in that slot at a different date? I'm curious, because I order and label my paint rack by the paint numbers.

 

Thanks for any answers! I started using Reaper Paints for about a year now and they have been pretty amazing. So glad to have found them!

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You can find T-pins at most sewing or craft stores.  This is what Reaper uses to make their fabulous but rarely available pokey tools.  Long quilt pins also work. 

 

You are correct on discontinued colors.  So far all the numbers have been retired.  If a new formulation of the color comes out it gets a new number. 

 

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26 minutes ago, Inarah said:

This is what Reaper uses to make their fabulous but rarely available pokey tools.

I thought they were in regular production now.  In any case, they're in stock at the moment.

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5 minutes ago, Serenity said:

I thought they were in regular production now.  In any case, they're in stock at the moment.

 

They are (or at least were when the first one came out) labor intensive pieces, so Reaper didn't offer them, other then the initial ones at ReaperCon. Eventually they made their way back into the inventory & I know I've seen a few special edition ones (like Micheal Proctor's "Crow's Nest") with different heads to them.

 

Really thou, unless you wanna get all geeky about, a plain T-pin will work just the same. They also work great for rapier blade conversions on minis too. 😁

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49 minutes ago, Inarah said:

You can find T-pins at most sewing or craft stores.  This is what Reaper uses to make their fabulous but rarely available pokey tools.  Long quilt pins also work. 

 

You are correct on discontinued colors.  So far all the numbers have been retired.  If a new formulation of the color comes out it gets a new number. 

 

 

Thanks for the info on the numbering, that is good to know for sorting out my paint rack!

Thanks all for the replies. I now know about Pokey Tools, and will order some to try out!

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25 minutes ago, Serenity said:

I thought they were in regular production now.  In any case, they're in stock at the moment.

 

Are they? Completely missed that. 

 

 

20 minutes ago, Highlander said:

You can never, ever, have enough pokey tools.  For the desperate, there is a class on making your own being offered at ReaperCon.

 

But it is sold out. 

 

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5 hours ago, Inarah said:

But it is sold out.

Just my first step in cornering the market.

 

As to substitutes, such as pins and lasers and needles ...  they aren't pokey tools.  I rest my case.

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6 hours ago, Inarah said:

 

Are they? Completely missed that. 

 

 

 

But it is sold out. 

 

 

ReaperCon is sold out or that particular class? I'm not too familiar, but hoping to attend ReaperCon next year and would really like to take some classes.

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7 hours ago, Inarah said:

You can find T-pins at most sewing or craft stores.  This is what Reaper uses to make their fabulous but rarely available pokey tools.  Long quilt pins also work. 

 

Larger safety pins, straightened out paper clips, etc.

 

I have one of the Reaper pokeys somewhere, but the paper clip is my standard "go to."

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Another thing that helps: After dispensing paint, upright the bottle and give it a little tap to settle the paint. Then just a gentle little squeeze to "sneeze" air out the tip. If you do it right, you might get a tiny smidge of paint, but you're shooting for just air. You might have to "sneeze" the bottle a second time. Wipe the tip, put the cap back on. 

 

The idea is that this makes sure you don't have a plug of paint in the tip, just waiting to dry out after you've put the cap back on. Don't know if it actually helps, but I FEEL like it helps. 😄

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